Macaroni penguin standing on a rocky slope with green hills in the background.

Cooper Bay: Our First Stop in South Georgia

Arriving in South Georgia

As we continued our journey through the icy waters around South Georgia, we were still spotting icebergs in the distance. Low clouds blanketed us as we approached Cape Disappointment, and by the time we entered Drygalski Fjord, the cliffs were almost entirely obscured. It was a surreal sight, with the mist shrouding what would have been dramatic views (which luckily we saw last year).
Rocky shoreline with misty fog hovering over the cliffs, reflected in the calm turquoise waters below
That morning, our phones adjusted to Grytviken time, an hour later than ship time, as we neared our first stop: Cooper Bay. We were surprised to see so many icebergs.
Foggy seascape with distant icebergs scattered across the horizon, flanked by green, hilly shorelines on either side.

Due to the avian flu epidemic, many landing sites in South Georgia were closed, and the status changed by the hour. The expedition team tried to manage our expectations, given the unpredictable circumstances, but they were very optimistic about zodiac cruising. After five days of exceptional weather during our visit last year, I sensed this year would likely be a disappointment.

Cooper Bay was closed for landings, so we embarked on a zodiac cruise along the shore. Even without stepping foot on land, the experience was incredible—Antarctic fur seals were everywhere, their curious eyes watching us from the water and their rocky resting spots.

Seal emerging from the water, shaking its head with its mouth open and whiskers dripping, splashing water around in the ocean.
Seal standing upright in turbulent water near rocks, with waves splashing around it in a dark, dramatic setting.
Seal resting on a rocky shore, its body stretched and head raised, surrounded by wet, moss-covered rocks.
Seal peeking over dark rocks, its head barely visible as it looks out from behind the rocky landscape.
Seal resting on a rocky shoreline, its wet fur glistening in the sunlight, with mossy rocks and a blurred natural background.
We also spotted an elephant seal that, upon closer inspection, turned out to be a leopard seal!. We didn’t see any leopard seals in South Georgia last year, so this was an outstanding surprise.
A seal rests on a rock covered in seaweed with mossy cliffs and rugged mountains in the background, surrounded by water.
Close-up of a seal's flipper resting on its side, showcasing its speckled fur pattern. The soft texture of the flipper is contrasted against the seal's body, with seaweed visible in the foreground
Close-up of a spotted seal lounging on seaweed-covered rocks, with its head slightly raised and eyes partially closed, appearing content. The background is blurred, highlighting the seal’s detailed fur and relaxed expression.
There were so many penguins – including Chinstrap, Macaroni, Gentoo, and Kings.
Two penguins walking on a large, textured snowbank with a dramatic contrast between the bright, icy surface and the deep shadow behind them.
Chinstrap penguin standing on a rocky beach.
Macaroni penguin standing on rocky shore.
Macaroni penguin standing on mossy rocks.
Two macaroni penguins standing on a rocky outcrop
Gentoo penguin standing on rocky terrain.
King penguin standing among rocky terrain
Group of penguins, including chinstrap, gentoo and macaroni, on rocky terrain with snow-covered mountains in the background.
There was a lot of non-penguin birds as well – skua (my least favourite bird), pintail ducks, and light-mantled albatross.
Close-up of a southern giant petrel with a blood-stained face after feeding, water droplets falling from its beak.
Two brown ducks standing on seaweed-covered rocks.
A seabird nestled among tall tufts of green grass on a rocky slope
The bullwhip kelp here was fascinating, undulating beneath the surface in a strange and beautiful rhythm.
Close-up of large, dense kelp forest covering rocky shoreline with wet, glossy seaweed fronds extending toward the water.
Thick kelp forest clinging to rocky shoreline, with long, glossy seaweed fronds hanging down towards the water's edge. The vibrant greenish-blue ocean contrasts with the dark, textured kelp.
Lush kelp forest draped over rocky cliffs, with long, glossy seaweed fronds flowing down towards the ocean. The wet, dark seaweed contrasts with the rocky shoreline and vibrant water.
Close-up of vibrant red and orange seaweed covering a rock along the shoreline
Even the lichen-covered rocks were photo-worthy.
Close-up of a jagged rock formation with patches of vibrant yellow lichen.
Andy and Jennifer Martin

We’re Andy and Jennifer—two former corporate executives who chose long ago to prioritise experiences over stuff while pursuing our passions for travel and photography. From the Arctic to Antarctica, and most places in between, we’ve captured the world through our lenses and love sharing those stories. Our careers gave us the means, but our purpose is inspiring others to explore and helping people create images they’re proud of.

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