Stromness, Gritviken & Four Days at Sea

After the frustrations of the previous day, it was a relief to wake to sunshine at Stromness.

Mountain peaks glowing in evening light above the sheltered waters of Stromness, South Georgia.

Sunlit mountains rising above the coastline at Stromness, South Georgia.

A Landing at Stromness

It was still windy, but the forecast was improving, and for the first time on the voyage our Group 3 was called in the first round of landings.

Historic whaling station at Stromness beneath sunlit mountains on South Georgia.

Wildlife photographer wading across a stream beside an Antarctic fur seal at Stromness, South Georgia.

The gusts were still strong enough to knock you off balance, but once ashore the wildlife quickly became the focus. Fur seal pups seemed to be everywhere.

Antarctic fur seals silhouetted against the low sun on the shoreline at Stromness, South Georgia.

Close-up portrait of an Antarctic fur seal pup resting in warm sunlight at Stromness, South Georgia.

Antarctic fur seal scratching its neck while resting on grass at Stromness, South Georgia.

Antarctic fur seal pup sitting on the rocky shoreline at Stromness, South Georgia.

We first walked along the beach to see the southern elephant seals.

Southern elephant seal lying on the grass with a flipper raised at Stromness, South Georgia.

Southern elephant seal resting on a rocky beach in the sunlight at Stromness, South Georgia.

Southern elephant seals resting together on grass at Stromness, South Georgia.

They weren’t too active so we made our way up to the gentoo penguin colony. They were moulting though and it didn’t look too pleasant.

Moulting Gentoo penguin standing on a feather covered hill at Stromness, South Georgia.

There was also an optional walk to the base of the nearby waterfall, which around 150 passengers chose to do. Andy had hiked to the top of the falls in 2024, so we decided to skip it.

Hikers crossing the grassy valley beneath snow-covered mountains and glaciers at Stromness, South Georgia.

One of the highlights was simply standing along the shoreline watching the water. It seemed to be boiling with fur seals, with heads constantly popping up as they swam back and forth through the bay.


Overall, it was a pretty great landing and we were glad to have the rough weather from the previous day behind us.

Andy and Jennifer with camera gear on the shoreline at Stromness, South Georgia, with the historic whaling station behind them.

A Second Attempt at Grytvyken

During lunch, the Silver Wind returned to Grytviken for a second attempt at the landing that had been cancelled the previous afternoon. We picked up the South Georgia government representative once again, and this time the South Georgia Heritage Trust staff were able to came aboard to give their presentation.

Because we were in the first zodiac group, our clothing and gear received the extra inspection. The first few passengers were checked thoroughly by the government officials, and the ship passed without finding a single seed or contaminant.

Antarctic fur seals resting among the graves in the cemetery at Grytviken, South Georgia.

We landed near the cemetery, where Shackleton is buried, before exploring the rest of Grytviken. A huge elephant seal lay motionless in a drainage ditch, looking for all the world as though it had died, until it suddenly reminded everyone otherwise. A lone king penguin wandered nearby, while fur seals seemed to occupy almost every available patch of ground.

Southern elephant seal resting in a grassy drainage ditch near the historic whaling station at Grytviken, South Georgia.

The traditional whisky toast at Shackleton’s grave was offered, although pineapple juice was available as an alternative. It was a fairly informal affair, with no real presentation before everyone dispersed to explore.

From there we wandered through the old whaling station, picked up a South Georgia patch from the gift shop, saw a replica of the small boat Shackleton used during his remarkable journey to South Georgia, and explored the museum and warehouse at our own pace before returning to the ship from the opposite side of the bay.

Rusted chain hanging against weathered industrial equipment at the former Grytviken whaling station, South Georgia.

Replica of Shackleton’s James Caird lifeboat displayed inside the South Georgia Museum at Grytviken, South Georgia.

Rusted metal storage tanks from the former whaling station at Grytviken, South Georgia.

The highlight for Andy was this South Georgia pintail.

South Georgia pintail standing on grass at Stromness, South Georgia.

The highlight for me was a king penguin escort back to the landing site.

King penguin walking across the rocky shoreline at Grytviken, South Georgia, with fur seals and kayakers in the background.

And that’s a Wrap on South Georgia

At the evening recap, we learned that our time in South Georgia had come to an early end. A developing weather system, combined with icebergs blocking our planned route, meant the captain had decided to skip our final South Georgia morning in order to reach the Tristan da Cunha island group safely. We would still visit the islands, but Gough Island had been dropped from the itinerary, despite originally appearing in the voyage plans.

We were beginning to wonder if this trip was going to be a complete bust.

First there were the flight delays, followed by one of the charter flights being rerouted, which pushed back our departure. Then our departure for the Falklands was delayed due to weather, so we lost a day in the Falkland Islands. Now we’d lost our final day in South Georgia, and Gough Island had quietly disappeared from the itinerary altogether.

But the whole reason we’d booked this voyage was Nightingale Island and its northern rockhopper penguins. As long as that was still on the schedule, we were happy.

The only problem was that there were four sea days between us and finding out.

Four Uneventful Sea Days

Despite this being our sixth expedition, this was our longest stretch of sea days.

Life on board quickly settled into a routine, although it was made slightly confusing by gaining an hour every second night as we sailed north.

Daily Silversea newsletter, time-change notice and chocolates left on the bed during evening turndown service aboard Silver Wind.

Most mornings started with Andy heading up to Deck 8 to collect coffees. Plenty of passengers had their butlers deliver coffee to their suites, but we were still getting used to the whole butler concept and it felt a little cruisy.

We usually had breakfast around 8:00 am in the main dining room. Most people preferred the buffet, which meant the dining room was almost always quiet. After breakfast we’d head out for a walk around the outer deck to get some steps in, assuming the weather cooperated.

Sometimes we sat on the back of deck 7 and watched seabirds. It baffles my mind that there are birds this far from any land.

Wandering albatross gliding with wings outstretched above the South Atlantic Ocean.

Great shearwater banking over deep blue water in the South Atlantic Ocean.

White-chinned petrel flying low over turquoise waves in the South Atlantic Ocean.

Spectacled petrel in flight against a clear blue sky over the South Atlantic Ocean.

Light-mantled sooty albatross flying above the South Atlantic Ocean, showing its distinctive white eye ring.

Lunch was usually around 1:00 pm, either back in the dining room or at the outdoor grill when the wind dropped enough to make it pleasant.

I also joined a few more watercolour workshops, which were a relaxing way to pass an afternoon at sea. I was pretty pleased with my emperor penguin chick. Watercolour is very challenging if you like control. Which I do.

Watercolour painting of an emperor penguin chick created during an art workshop aboard Silver Wind.

One day the ship’s announcement system called a “Code Alpha.” Naturally, I googled it and discovered it meant a medical emergency. We never heard anything more, so hopefully everything turned out alright.

We typically had dinner in the main dining room or La Terazza around 7. And then rinse and repeat four times.

Next up –> We Reach the Tristan da Cunha Archipelago

Andy and Jennifer Martin

We’re Andy and Jennifer—two former corporate executives who chose long ago to prioritise experiences over stuff while pursuing our passions for travel and photography. From the Arctic to Antarctica, and most places in between, we’ve captured the world through our lenses and love sharing those stories. Our careers gave us the means, but our purpose is inspiring others to explore and helping people create images they’re proud of.

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