August 16, 2025March 6, 2026

Exploring the Canadian Rockies: Canmore, Lake Louise, and Jasper

This post is part of our July 2025 adventure to Canada. Click to expand this section and view the table of contents if you don't want to read sequentially, or if you are looking for a specific part of the trip.

Isn’t This Trip Over Yet?

After completing the side-quest to Newfoundland, we had to get back to the west coast of Canada for our return flight to Australia. Amazingly, we found a points-booking on Westjet via Calgary. The only problem is that it required a stopover in Calgary. Because of availability, the stopover could be either one day or five days. But we were already in Canada, and had no reason to rush back to Australia, so FiBi.

Why Canmore Instead of Banff

We’d always wanted to explore the Canadian Rockies. Years ago, during our “US National Parks” phase, we even sketched out a road trip itinerary, but it never materialised. Now, thanks to a last-minute change of plans, we suddenly had a week to spare. The only problem? It was peak season, we were booking a week in advance, and prices in Banff and Lake Louise were exorbitant. The cheapest non-hostel option was $500 USD per night, and we’d also heard horror stories about the crowds.

That’s how we ended up in Canmore — or technically Dead Man’s Flats, a blip on the radar just outside town consisting of two petrol stations, a coffee shop, and a few timeshare developments. Our Airbnb was part of one of those timeshares, but it was surprisingly good: full kitchen, lounge, bedroom, bathroom, and laundry. When the host (an Aussie, naturally) said it had a “mountain view,” I think they were stretching the definition (see below) , but it was quiet, comfortable, and perfect for three nights.

And speaking of Aussies — I swear we met more Australians in Canada than Canadians.

Classic Canmore and Banff Experiences

Canmore itself is a cute little town, though after being in Newfoundland it felt really crowded. That said, the classic spots we visited lived up to what we’d seen in photos.

Grassi Lakes Hike – Reviews on All Trails mentioned going left at the fork in the trail for better views and they were spot on. We were amazed to see people rock climbing the granite faces at the top, and decided that was where we’d turn around.
Moraine Lake Sunrise – because of the crowds, you can no longer drive to Moraine Lake. We booked with Moraine Lake Bus Company, departing from Lake Louise village at 4 a.m. for the 20-minute ride. The driver was Aussie (of course). It’s a short but dark 10-minute walk from the car park, so bring a headlamp. I had one photo in mind and got it.

Tips for Moraine Lake: bring a torch, wear layers, pack bug spray, and take a thermos of coffee and snacks. If budget is no issue, stay at the lodge (from $1,795 CAD per night, breakfast included). For budget travellers, Parks Canada shuttles open in April, with extra tickets released two days prior at 8 a.m. MDT ($11.50 CAD).
Lake Louise – we arrived at 8 a.m. after Moraine Lake and scored literally the last parking space. The crowds were already overwhelming. We planned to have breakfast at the hotel, but it was only open to guests. We tried pretending like we were hotel guests, but they ask for your room number. The grab-and-go café is open to the public and charged $30 for two muffins and two coffees. We happily paid because we’d been up since 2:45 and hangry is not a good look for me.
Bow Valley Parkway – scenic drive with wildlife. We saw bighorn sheep (at least we think they weren’t goats) and a bear nibbling on berries.

Driving the Icefields Parkway to Jasper

After three nights in Dead Man’s Flat, we set out on the Icefields Parkway to Jasper. Maps said four hours, but we made a day of it with stops:

Herbert Lake – peaceful and photogenic
Bow Lake – coffee and pastry stop (and toilets!)
Peyto Lake – a 10-minute walk, and very crowded
Waterfowl Lakes – accidentally wandered into the campground but ended up with a quiet walk, no people in sight.

We also had a roadside sighting of a mother black bear with two cubs. We watched quietly from the car, but when others pulled over and charged into the field waving selfie sticks, the bears disappeared. People sometimes suck.

Jasper After the Fires

As we neared Jasper, the impact of the previous year’s fires became obvious. Charred forests stretched for kilometres, but there were also clusters of temporary housing for workers and displaced residents. Despite the scars, Jasper had the feel of a resilient little town, ready to rebuild.

We stayed at Pine Village Bungalows. At first we could only get two nights, but luck was on our side. After asking at breakfast, they shifted us into a king cabin for the next two nights. The cabin was more spacious, with a fireplace, but no kitchen.

On arrival we were greeted by a herd of elk — cows with calves grazing right by the cabins. There were also little gopher-like critters (maybe prairie dogs).

The property had communal fire pits with chairs, and the restaurant sold little s’mores kits, which gave us Oregon nostalgia.

Food in Jasper

With no kitchen were forced to eat out for dinner, but it wasn’t all bad:

Olive Bistro – excellent.
Montana’s BBQ – not Olive Bistro, but ok.
Jasper Pizza – also not Olive Bistro, but ok.

The only niggle was breakfast on our last day at the Pine Bungalows. We turned up at the restaurant at 7:30 a.m. to an empty dining room, only to be told it was “fully booked.” Instead we drove to the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, where the overpriced breakfast was redeemed by views over the lake. After breakfast we did the loop walk around the lake and spotted a very patient loon.

Maligne Lake and Beyond

We also drove out to Maligne Lake, hiking the Mary Schäffer loop in the afternoon with hardly anyone else around — just us and a deer. Evening drives gave us more elk sightings, including some spectacular males. Watching one rip a tree apart with its antlers was unforgettable.

Before

After

Wrapping Up the Rockies

The Rockies part of the trip was definitely slower paced, but that’s what we needed after eight weeks on the road.

Andy and Jennifer Martin

We’re Andy and Jennifer—two former corporate executives who chose long ago to prioritise experiences over stuff while pursuing our passions for travel and photography. From the Arctic to Antarctica, and most places in between, we’ve captured the world through our lenses and love sharing those stories. Our careers gave us the means, but our purpose is inspiring others to explore and helping people create images they’re proud of.