A Perfect Landing at Salisbury Plain and a Cruise around Prince Olaf Harbour

After two days at sea, we woke to our first view of South Georgia on this expedition. Our destination? Salisbury Plain. We visited in January 2023 and remembered massive king penguin colonies and heaps of fur and elephant seals, so we were excited to return.

Sunset over the mountainous coastline and calm waters of South Georgia.

This was also our first proper expedition landing aboard the Silver Wind, so we were curious to see how the process compared with previous ships.

Glacier and snow-covered mountains illuminated by sunlight above Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Large king penguin colony spread across the coastal plain and tussock-covered hills at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Silversea Zodiac Operations

Silversea divides guests into six zodiac subgroups, numbered 1 through 6. Those six groups are then split into two larger groups (1, 2, 3 and 4, 5, 6), with each larger group alternating who goes ashore first at each landing. Within those groups, the order of the individual subgroups rotates as well, giving everyone a chance to be first over the course of the voyage.

We were assigned to Group 3. For this landing, Group 1 was called at 7:30 am, Group 2 at 7:40 am, and our group at 7:50 am.

One thing we noticed immediately was the mudroom. It’s much smaller than on most expedition ships we’ve sailed, and is really just designed for boot storage rather than as a staging area for guests. Even so, the process moved surprisingly quickly and we were soon climbing into the zodiacs.

Landing at Salisbury Plain

I’m not sure when the last ship visited Salisbury Plain, but the penguins and seals seemed starved for company. We practically got an escort from the ship to the beach.

King penguins swimming together in the coastal waters off Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Salisbury Plain is home to one of South Georgia’s largest king penguin colonies, and it didn’t take long to remember why these birds are so much fun to watch. They weren’t just curious about us. They were curious about everything.

King penguins approaching a visitor during a foggy landing at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

King penguin chick covered in brown down standing among adult penguins at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Several penguins wandered over to inspect the landing area, pulling marker flags out of the ground, nibbling at the protective tarps, and generally behaving like toddlers who had discovered a new playground. It was impossible not to smile.

Wildlife photographer surrounded by thousands of king penguins at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

We had around two hours ashore, which was enough time to wander among the colony, photograph the seemingly endless sea of king penguins, and simply stand still and absorb the experience.

King penguins and a brown down-covered chick gathered in the colony at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Close-up portrait of a king penguin among the breeding colony at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

King penguin preening its feathers at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Large group of king penguins swimming through the surf at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

As the morning went on, the fog gradually thickened, slowly swallowing the mountains behind the colony and creating an entirely different atmosphere from when we first landed.

Group of king penguins walking through tussock grass at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.

Zodiac Cruising at Prince Olav Harbour

During lunch, the Silver Wind repositioned to Prince Olav Harbour for our afternoon zodiac cruise.

Light rain fell for most of the outing, which wasn’t ideal for photography, but the wildlife made up for it.

Antarctic fur seals resting on coastal rocks at Prince Olav Harbour, South Georgia.

Group of Antarctic fur seals swimming together at Prince Olav Harbour, South Georgia.

Antarctic fur seal swimming in the water at Prince Olav Harbour, South Georgia.

Seals seemed to be everywhere. Antarctic fur seals lined the shoreline, elephant seals sprawled across the beaches, and every now and then we came across something a little more unusual: leucistic seals.

Leucistic Antarctic fur seal pup swimming through shallow water at Prince Olav Harbour, South Georgia.

Leucism is a genetic condition that causes a partial loss of pigmentation, producing animals that appear white or very pale while still retaining their normal eye colour. They stand out immediately against the dark rocks and black sand beaches, making them impossible to miss.

The weather may not have delivered the light we were hoping for, but it was still an enjoyable afternoon on the water before returning to the ship.

Silver Wind expedition ship anchored offshore in foggy conditions, with Zodiacs transporting passengers in South Georgia.

Next up –> Rain at Jason Harbour and the Wind Wins at Grytviken

Andy and Jennifer Martin

We’re Andy and Jennifer—two former corporate executives who chose long ago to prioritise experiences over stuff while pursuing our passions for travel and photography. From the Arctic to Antarctica, and most places in between, we’ve captured the world through our lenses and love sharing those stories. Our careers gave us the means, but our purpose is inspiring others to explore and helping people create images they’re proud of.