December 19, 2024March 29, 2025

Embarkation Day: Setting Sail for New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands

This post is part of our December 2024 - January 2025 adventure to the South Island of New Zealand (and the SubAntarctic Islands). Click to expand this section and view the table of contents if you don't want to read sequentially, or if you are looking for a specific part of the trip.

Our day kicked off with a hearty buffet breakfast and a picture-perfect weather day for Queenstown. Following the instructions provided by Heritage, we checked out of our room and dropped our bags at the hotel reception by 9 AM. We had some time to spare, so we walked over to the gondola. Despite the steep price of $64 NZD per person, the views were exceptional and we enjoyed watching the paragliders.

Aerial view of Queenstown with Lake Wakatipu and paragliders

Panoramic view of Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown waterfront.

After a leisurely walk back through the park, we returned to the hotel to grab the provided lunch. By 1 PM, we were on the buses, set for the three-hour journey to Bluff. We stopped for a bathroom break half-way in Lumsden, and while I thought it would take forever for 34 people to use the toilet, this was the cleanest most efficient rest stop I’ve ever encountered. So much so that it deserved a photo.

Lumsden public toilet building with train decor

Highway sign pointing left to Bluff on State Highway 1

Arriving at the port in Bluff, New Zealand customs officials boarded our bus for a quick passport check before proceeding to the Heritage Adventurer. Strong winds meant a staggered exit to the ship to prevent congestion on the gangway, but it was fairly quick. Once aboard, the first official task was a visit to the lounge to submit our passports.

Passengers boarding cruise ship via gangway at dock

Toasting colourful cocktails inside cruise ship lounge

Next, we were shown to our cabin, which was a “superior” cabin located mid-ship on deck 5. It exceeded our expectations with ample storage, numerous lockable cubbies and closets, and shelves designed to withstand rough seas, complete with non-slip surfaces and a handy mini-fridge. The lockable cubbies and closets were to keep things from opening during rough seas, rather than for security. There main door only locked from the inside, but you could request a key card if you wanted. I always forget to get photos of our accommodation before we mess them up 🙂

Spacious cruise ship cabin with bed and ocean view

There were a few goodies waiting for us in the room, my favourite being the Macquarie Island patch (though not sure what I will do with it). I also enjoyed the multi-lingual barf bag.

Heritage Expeditions VIP badge and Macquarie patch

Like most ship expeditions, a mandatory lifeboat drill was conducted, which was a bit confusing but eventually sorted out.

Couple in life jackets during cruise safety drill on deck

As we left the Port of Bluff, the wind intensified, setting the tone for what we were told would be a rough journey ahead.

Tugboat assisting cruise ship near port terminal

Dramatic ocean view of remote island under blue sky

Before dinner, we gathered in the lounge for a briefing led by the expedition leader. He started by asking if anyone had been on an expedition before, and I had a quick flashback to our Alaska expedition (where we arrived to a broken ship). He then explained how we were on plan D of the itinerary in order to give us the best chance of landing at Macquarie Island, which was the entire reason we chose this expedition. This is one of the risks of expedition cruises – you are at the whim of the weather and nothing is guaranteed.

Meals are probably my least favourite part of being on ships. You often can’t control who you sit with, the portions are usually large, and it’s also challenging with food allergies. I’m convinced that dining with sick people was how we got sick the past two years. I was pleasantly surprised to see a variety of seating arrangements from cozy tables for two to larger groups, all with prime ocean views. The hospitality manager found me straight away to confirm my dietary restrictions and introduce us to the wait staff. There were also plenty of options on the a la carte menu.

Gourmet beef entrée with sauce and vegetable chips

Chocolate tart dessert with vanilla ice cream and fruit

After dinner, we spent some time on deck photographing seabirds. It was extremely windy with a bit of swell, so I only lasted a short time until getting nauseaus.

Seabird flying low over ocean waves

Seabird soaring above choppy sea at sunset

Seabird gliding past rocky island cliffs

Brown and white seabird flying over ocean

I got a LOT of shots like this 🙂

Tips of seabird wings in flight against clear sky

The last task for the day was to visit the mudroom to be fitted for muckboots. The space was much smaller than the mudroom on the Greg Mortimer, with three rows of cubbies instead of full length lockers. The cleaning station was far better though, with an automated boot scrubber and walk in rinse area. Nope, didn’t get any photos of it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Golden ocean sunset with dramatic clouds