Ship's bow facing an open sea at sunset with orange skies

Embarkation Day: Setting Sail for New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands

Our day kicked off with a hearty buffet breakfast and a picture-perfect weather day for Queenstown. Following the instructions provided by Heritage, we checked out of our room and dropped our bags at the hotel reception by 9 AM. We had some time to spare, so we walked over to the gondola. Despite the steep price of $64 NZD per person, the views were exceptional and we enjoyed watching the paragliders.

 

After a leisurely walk back through the park, we returned to the hotel to grab the provided lunch. By 1 PM, we were on the buses, set for the three-hour journey to Bluff. We stopped for a bathroom break half-way in Lumsden, and while I thought it would take forever for 34 people to use the toilet, this was the cleanest most efficient rest stop I’ve ever encountered.

 

Arriving at the port in Bluff, New Zealand customs officials boarded our bus for a quick passport check before proceeding to the Heritage Adventurer. Strong winds meant a staggered exit to the ship to prevent congestion on the gangway, but it was fairly quick. Once aboard, the first official task was a visit to the lounge to submit our passports.

 

Next, we were shown to our cabin, which was located mid-ship on deck 5. It exceeded our expectations with ample storage, numerous lockable cubbies and closets, and shelves designed to withstand rough seas, complete with non-slip surfaces and a handy mini-fridge. The lockable cubbies and closets were to keep things from opening during rough seas, rather than for security. There main door only locked from the inside, but you could request a key card if you wanted.

 

Like most ship expeditions, a mandatory lifeboat drill was conducted, which was a bit confusing but eventually sorted out. As we left the Port of Bluff, the wind intensified, setting the tone for what we were told would be a rough journey ahead.

 

Before dinner, we gathered in the lounge for a briefing led by the expedition leader. He started by asking if anyone had been on an expedition before, and I had a quick flashback to our Alaska expedition (where we arrived to a broken ship). He then explained how we were on plan D of the itinerary in order to give us the best chance of landing at Macquarie Island. I was relieved to know.

 

Meals are probably my least favourite part of being on ships. You often can’t control who you sit with, the portions are usually large, and it’s also challenging with food allergies. I’m convinced that dining with sick people was how we got sick the past two years. I was pleasantly surprised to see a variety of seating arrangements from cozy tables for two to larger groups, all with prime ocean views. The hospitality manager found me straight away to confirm my dietary restrictions and introduce us to the wait staff. There were also plenty of options on the a la carte menu.

The last task for the day was to visit the mudroom to be fitted for muckboots. The space was much smaller than the mudroom on the Greg Mortimer, with three rows of cubbies instead of full length lockers. The cleaning station was far better though, with an automated boot scrubber and walk in rinse area.

 

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