Serene fjord with forested cliffs, snow-capped peaks, and low-lying clouds

Te Anau and Milford Sound

The slight wine-induced haze from last night—yes, three glasses now count as a big night in my mid-life—made for a slow start to the morning. Andy fetched our coffee from the lobby, just as we got a text from our Airbnb host inviting us to check in early. Motivated by the prospect of settling in sooner, we hit the road, planning to grab breakfast en route.

Sunlit hill overlooking a town with lush greenery and a river.

Our first opportunity was the Kingston corner shop, about 40 minutes into our drive. We grabbed a takeaway coffee and explored the lupine-lined shore of Lake Wakatipu. Still peckish, we stopped again in Lumsden, another 40 minutes later.

 

Our AirBNB, Blackwood Cottage, was about five minutes north of Te Anau. The cottage was a perfect base for our three nights in Te Anau, had a great view of the lake and surrounding mountains, and even a few free range chickens.
Wide-angle view of a green landscape with mountains and lake
Modern tiny house with a black roof, set against mountains
Cozy living space with a kitchen, sofa, and colorful crochet blanket
Man bending to pet a chicken with a scenic mountain backdrop

 

We pre-booked two activities in Te Anau: A Milford Sound Cruise and a Heli-Hike on the Kepler Track.

Cruise in Milford Sound

Our adventure in Milford Sound began with a pre-dawn start. Following advice from Mitre Peak Cruises, we left Blackwood Cottage at 5:30 AM, ensuring we had ample time for the drive without feeling rushed. Thick fog added an ethereal atmosphere to the drive through the winding roads.

Misty highway stretching through mountains at dawn

Snow-capped mountain partially covered in fog

The fog began to lift as we neared the Homer Tunnel, revealing the rugged peaks of Fiordland. Carved through solid rock, this one-lane tunnel took 19 years to complete, finally opening in 1954. Traffic lights control the flow, but at this time of the morning there was no wait—only three cars passed us the entire drive.

Entrance of a mountain tunnel with rugged terrain

Inside a covered mountain pass with metal beams

The closest parking to the cruise terminal is a 10-minute walk (and costs $10/hour). $40 seemed a bit steep for parking, and we’d arrived with plenty of time so we opted for the free parking. This was an additional 15-minute walk, but we enjoyed the crisp morning air and breathtaking views along the path.

Hiker with a colorful beanie walking on a gravel trail

Scenic fjord landscape with misty mountains and calm waters

Panoramic view of a fjord with misty mountains reflected in water

We selected Mitre Peak for their smaller boat and because they go further into the sound. The cascading waterfalls were definitely the highlight, especially when the captain put the nose of the ship under one of the waterfalls completely drenching guests on the bow (they were warned, but didn’t listen). We also saw NZ seals and bottlenose dolphins and the two hours on the water flew by.

 

By 11:30, we were back at the car and hungry, so we stopped for lunch at the Milford Sound Lodge for lunch (a place we’ve now added to our “must-return” list).

We took a leisurely drive back, stopping frequently at various viewpoints. We were excited to see a Kea and spent some time photographing it.

We quickly learned they are kind of pests (like sulphur crested cockatoos in Australia). While we waited to pass through the one-lane tunnel, a curious/aggressive Kea decided our car might be interesting enough to peck at. The Kea seemed to like black rubber and actually removed an entire strip!

A highlight of the views were the endless fields of lupine.

Heli-Hike on the Kepler Track

We’d planned a helicopter hike on the Kepler Track the next day, but alas, the weather had other plans. Rainy, windy, and with low clouds, our heli hike was canceled. The heli-hike is also on the list for a future trip. With our morning unexpectedly free, we grabbed coffee from the Sand Fly and enjoyed a leisurely start.

Kepler Track Carpark to Brod Bay Campsite

The weather cleared in the afternoon, so we drove to the control gates and tackled a flatter part of the Kepler Track, absorbing the lush, verdant landscape at a relaxed pace.

Te Anau Bird Sanctuary

We also visited the Punanga Manu o Te Anau / Te Anau Bird Sanctuary, but it was pretty quiet, with few birds out except for a solitary Takahe in its enclosure.

Next up — An Overnight Cruise in Doubtful Sound

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