December 31, 2024April 7, 2025

From Disembarkation to Dunedin

This post is part of our December 2024 - January 2025 adventure to the South Island of New Zealand (and the SubAntarctic Islands). Click to expand this section and view the table of contents if you don't want to read sequentially, or if you are looking for a specific part of the trip.

Disembarkation day always carries a hint of melancholy, almost like the end of a relationship. We docked at Bluff around 8 AM and, being bound for Invercargill Airport, we were among the last to disembark at around 9:30 AM. The drive to the airport was quiet and reflective.

Expedition team waving beside Heritage Adventurer ship

Arriving at the airport before the Budget rental car office opened, we used the courtesy phone, and thankfully, someone came down so we could pick up our car without much delay. With time to spare before we could check into our Airbnb, we decided to detour to Nugget Point Lighthouse. The lighthouse, established in 1870, stands majestically on a steep headland surrounded by rocky islets known as “The Nuggets.” The walk was about 2km return, which was a nice way to break up the drive.

Lighthouse on cliffside overlooking ocean rocks

Rocky coastline and sea stacks in blue ocean

Sea lion warning sign along coastal highway

We passed through Dunedin, a city known for its Scottish and Maori heritage and the gateway to the wildlife-rich areas of the Otago Peninsula. Still early for check-in, we explored the surrounding areas, discovering the beautiful Sandy Point Nature Reserve—a thick forest of macrocarpa trees which gave way to a sheep paddock atop the cliffs overlooking the ocean. The weather was impressive – it went from full fog to blue sky in under 30 minutes.

Forest trail lined with tall, dense trees

Rolling hills with fog and distant trees

The right side of this image is Pacific Ocean and Allan’s Beach, and on the left is Hoopers Inlet, one of two large tidal inlets on the Otago Peninsula.

Our Airbnb, ‘The Bothy,’ was a self-contained unit on a working farm atop the cliffs of the Otago Peninsula.

House porch with inlet and mountain views

Scenic inlet and grassy hills under blue sky

We hadn’t booked any experiences in advance, as we didn’t know how much rest we would need after the expedition. This turned out to be a mistake as the tours to see the little penguins were all sold out. Despite our relaxed pace, we ventured out to explore a few local attractions:

- Orokuni Bird Sanctuary: After a somewhat disappointing experience at the bird sanctuary in Te Anau, this sanctuary was a delightful surprise, showcasing wild Tui, Kaka, and Takahe among other native species.

Tūī bird on branch with iridescent feathers

Bellbird perched on twig in green forest

We walked for about an hour in search of a Kaka, which is a large, olive-brown parrot endemic to New Zealand. It had started to mist, so we decided to call it a day and head back to the car. Of course, this is when we found them.

Kākā parrot on branch in native forest

Allans Beach: A stunning, windswept beach with its resident sea lions and lots of shorebirds.
- Hoopers Inlet: Home to hundreds of black swans, cygnets, and spoonbills.
  The Otago peninsula has a well known pest problem, but the focus seems to be more on possums, rats, and stoats (like a weasel). We saw SO many rabbit as well, including this unlucky one who was being relocated by a swamp harrier.

We had a very quiet New Year’s Eve which included a trip to a laundromat in Dunedin and macaroni and cheese for dinner. Quite a change from last year!

Smiling couple at laundromat with detergent