January 13, 2024August 25, 2024

The Silence at Larsen Fjord and Some Seriously Cool Icebergs

This post is part of our second once-in-a-lifetime expedition to the Falklands, South Georgia, and Antarctica. Click to expand this section and view the table of contents if you don’t want to read this sequentially, or you are looking for a specific part of the trip.

The Sound of Silence

We woke to gusty winds in Larsen Fjord, surrounded by an unusual number of icebergs—likely remnants from the massive ones that had broken up offshore.

A series of large icebergs float in calm turquoise waters under a dramatic sky with dark clouds.

A massive iceberg with jagged edges floats near rugged, snow-dusted mountains.

The swell had picked up by the time Greg summoned us to the zodiacs, however he assured us that it would be calm once in the protected waters of the fjord. We’ve learned to always just go with it when Greg makes a recommendation. The swell made boarding a bit tricky, but as promised, once inside the fjord, we were completely protected from the wind, and the experience transformed.

A small group in inflatable boats explores calm waters surrounded by towering rocky mountains with patches of snow.

The water was calm, and we were treated to sightings of elephant seals, fur, and Weddell seals scattered along the shore.

A young seal with its mouth wide open rests in tall grass on a rocky shoreline.

A young seal peeks its head out of the water near large moss-covered rocks.

A fur seal sits upright among tall grass, gazing upward with a rocky background.

A Weddell seal rests on its back among gray rocks, with its head tilted slightly upward and eyes open.

We even spotted a few stray penguins wandering among them.

A Gentoo penguin with a bright orange beak stands in shallow water near a rocky shore.

As we ventured further into the fjord, the wildlife thinned out, and we reached a peaceful spot at the end where we sat in complete silence. When on zodiac cruises, sometimes you get expedition guides who like to narrate the whole time, and sometimes you are with other passengers who talk the entire time. On this particular excursion though, everything was silent. There were just two blue-eyed shags keeping us company, creating a surreal and tranquil moment that was far better than I had expected.

Blue-eyed shag with bright orange markings and pink feet perches on a wet rock.

Blue-eyed shag perched on a rock with tall green grass nearby, holding a piece of seaweed in its orange and black beak.

We watched Arctic terns dart and dive for fish. These remarkable birds undertake the longest migration of any species, traveling from the Arctic to Antarctica and back each year.

An Arctic tern with a red beak and white wings gracefully glides in mid-flight against a blurred grayish background.

An Arctic tern skims the water's surface with its wings spread, creating ripples in the calm water. The bird clutches a small fish in its red beak, with floating seaweed visible in the foreground.

The geology of Larsen Fjord is striking, with towering cliffs that rise dramatically from the water, carved by ancient glaciers over millennia.

Close-up of a rugged cliff face featuring dark gray and green rock with streaks of bright yellow and orange mineral deposits.

Close-up of a weathered rock formation with striking hues of orange, yellow, red, and gray.

Close-up of a rocky cliff covered with patches of green moss and vegetation growing amidst white and gray stone.

By the time we returned to the ship, the sun was shining brightly, transforming the water from a deep blue into a vibrant shade of turquoise.

Panoramic view of towering rocky mountains meeting the vibrant turquoise sea, with distant icebergs floating under a partly cloudy sky.

A smiling couple poses on a ship's deck with turquoise water, snowy mountains, and a dramatic sky in the background.

We gathered on the front deck for the official expedition photo. We’re easy to spot on the right given my bright yellow jacket.

A large group of people, dressed in bright red and blue jackets, pose cheerfully on a ship's deck overlooking vibrant turquoise waters with icebergs and rocky mountains in the distance.

The plan for the afternoon was to anchor at Royal Harbour, but with wind gusts reaching 60 knots, anchoring was impossible. Although we couldn’t stop, we were rewarded with some of the most spectacular icebergs we’ve ever seen—massive and sculpted by nature in ways that left us awestruck.

A massive turquoise iceberg floats in the ocean under a cloudy sky with a rocky shoreline faintly visible in the background.

A large turquoise and white iceberg with sculpted formations floats in the ocean, set against a dark mountainous backdrop and vibrant blue sky.

A massive iceberg featuring both white and turquoise ice with smooth curves, floating in dark waters against a backdrop of fog-covered mountains.

Close-up of a vibrant turquoise iceberg, showcasing smooth, undulating ice formations with intricate textures and shimmering light reflections.

Even though Plan A didn’t work out, the fjord and icebergs delivered a memorable day—proof that on an expedition cruise, sometimes Plan B or C leads to unexpected beauty that surpasses the original plan.