A Snowy Day at Chiriguano and Damoy Point: Embracing Plan B in Antarctica

We woke up cruising the Gerlache Strait with the weather turning “filthy” upon our arrival at Useful Island. This was one of those days that reminded us of the key lesson of expedition cruising: there’s no set itinerary, only a plan—and then there’s Plan B, C, and so on. While we’d been lucky so far, this was the first day we needed to rely on Plan B (not counting our big weather diversion during the Drake, which serendipitously allowed us to cross the Antarctic Circle on New Year’s Eve).

Our landing was pushed back an hour as the crew scouted for a more sheltered spot. When we finally anchored at Chiriguano, it was absolutely dumping snow—but with no wind. I layered up and lined up for the zodiac excursion. Andy decided to sit this one out and went back to the jacuzzi. The ocean was covered in ice—some of it thick, while other areas resembled slush, so the Zodiacs ventured out in pairs for safety. Although the wildlife sightings were sparse, the cruise through the icebergs was breathtaking. It felt like we were experiencing “real” Antarctica for the first time—everything covered in snow, icebergs looming all around. We’d been spoiled with unusually calm and sunny weather on the peninsula, so this felt raw and authentic.

For the afternoon excursion, the ship moved to Damoy Point to visit a Gentoo penguin colony. There were two brightly coloured historic huts at the landing site and endless untouched snow.

We hiked up through the snow to a Gentoo penguin colony. Once again it was a bit of sensory overload with their brays, trumpets, and stink.

Among the Gentoos, we spotted one lone chinstrap penguin, clearly wandering off-course.

There was no snorkelling this afternoon, so it was the first landing that Andy and I did together.