A lone Gentoo penguin stands on the snow with a large cruise ship blurred in the background, docked in the icy waters of Antarctica. Snow and icebergs surround the serene, cold landscape.

A Snowy Day at Chiriguano and Damoy Point: Embracing Plan B in Antarctica

Waking Up Filthy

We woke up cruising the Gerlache Strait with the weather turning “filthy” upon our arrival at Useful Island. This was one of those days that reminded us of the key lesson of expedition cruising: there’s no set itinerary, only a plan—and then there’s Plan B, C, and so on. While we’d been lucky so far, this was the first day we needed to rely on Plan B (not counting our big weather diversion during the Drake, which serendipitously allowed us to cross the Antarctic Circle on New Year’s Eve).
Large snowflakes fall steadily over the calm, gray ocean waters, creating a serene winter scene in Antarctica. The horizon blends into the misty sky, emphasizing the quiet snowfall.
Thin sheets of ice, broken into irregularly shaped pieces, float on the dark Antarctic waters. In the distance, towering white glaciers and icebergs loom under a cloudy sky, emphasizing the cold and desolate environment.
Our landing was pushed back an hour as the crew scouted for a more sheltered spot. When we finally anchored at Chiriguano, it was absolutely dumping snow—but with no wind. I layered up and lined up for the zodiac excursion. Andy decided to sit this one out and went back to the jacuzzi. The ocean was covered in ice—some of it thick, while other areas resembled slush, so the Zodiacs ventured out in pairs for safety. Although the wildlife sightings were sparse, the cruise through the icebergs was breathtaking. It felt like we were experiencing “real” Antarctica for the first time—everything covered in snow, icebergs looming all around. We’d been spoiled with unusually calm and sunny weather on the peninsula, so this felt raw and authentic.
A small inflatable boat carrying several people in winter gear is seen from a distance, floating on icy, snow-speckled Antarctic waters under an overcast sky.
A small group in an inflatable boat navigates icy Antarctic waters filled with scattered chunks of floating ice.
A person in red winter gear and ski goggles holds a large, translucent piece of ice with a smile, standing on a small boat in snowy Antarctic conditions.
For the afternoon excursion, the ship moved to Damoy Point to visit a Gentoo penguin colony. There were two brightly coloured historic huts at the landing site and endless untouched snow.
A weathered red metal shed with an Argentine flag painted on its side stands alone in the snowy Antarctic landscape.
A bright orange hut stands out against the snowy Antarctic terrain under a dark, cloudy sky. Mounted on its exterior are various tools, including an axe, shovel, and pickaxe, adding to its rugged utility.
Three hikers in red jackets walking on a vast, snowy mountain slope under a cloudy, gray sky
We hiked up through the snow to a Gentoo penguin colony. Once again it was a bit of sensory overload with their brays, trumpets, and stink.
Four gentoo penguins on rocky terrain, one with an open beak, appearing to call out
Gentoo penguin walking through deep snow with wings slightly raised.
Gentoo penguin standing on a rock with beak open, calling out
Gentoo penguin standing on rocky ground, beak open, calling with icy mountains in the background.
Among the Gentoos, we spotted one lone chinstrap penguin, clearly wandering off-course.
Chinstrap penguin standing upright on snowy ground, facing forward
Chinstrap penguin standing on rocky, snow-covered ground, facing left.
There was no snorkelling this afternoon, so it was the first landing that Andy and I did together.
Man in a blue jacket standing on a vast snowy field under cloudy skies, holding a camera
Person in a blue jacket standing on snow with a camera, large iceberg and snow-covered mountains in the background.
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