A Very Memorable New Year’s Eve
December 31st marked a major milestone—we had finally reached the Antarctic Peninsula. Our first landing of the expedition was after lunch at Prospect Point.
When our cabin numbers were announced, we gathered in the mudroom, slipping into our muckboots and prepping for the short journey ahead. Before boarding the zodiacs, we stepped into a tray of Virkon, ensuring our boots were disinfected to protect the delicate local ecosystem. Andy and the snorkeling group, who would alternate between snorkeling and landings to ensure they didn’t miss any of the experiences, were called separately, boarding their own designated zodiac. For the rest of us, the zodiacs were aligned neatly against the ship, and we embarked one by one—first a firm grasp on the zodiac driver’s arm, a step onto the zodiac’s edge, a quick balance on a small stool, and finally settling onto the zodiac floor. Guided to our seats, we found the sea exceptionally calm, making our departure from the ship smooth and effortless.
As we started our hike to the lookout, the slushy snow and slippery path slowed our progress. Standing at 5’4″ (163 cm), I found the knee-deep snow particularly challenging, but meanwhile, Greg, our legendary mountaineer expedition leader who is 20 years my senior, jogged past us uphill, wearing a giant smile.
The weather had changed and it was unbelievable—glassy calm with zero wind, making for stunning reflections everywhere we looked. It was a rare treat to have such perfect conditions.
We embarked on a zodiac cruise through the ice to an Adelie penguin colony.
The penguins were as delightful as ever, but for me, the highlight was spotting a Weddell seal lounging on the ice. Weddell seals are primarily found in Antarctica, thriving even in its harsh environment. These seals can dive up to 600 meters and stay submerged for an hour. They sport sleek, spotted coats and have expressive eyes that add to their distinct appearance. Known for their vocal nature, they use various calls to communicate underwater. Remarkably, Weddell seals can live up to 30 years and can grow up to 3 meters in length and weigh between 400 and 600 kilograms, making them one of the larger seal species in their icy habitat.
Meanwhile, Andy went for a checkout snorkel.
During the checkout snorkel, the main goal was to get comfortable with gear in a controlled setting. Drysuits come with snug seals around the neck and wrists and have built-in boots, but they aren’t exactly insulating. So, you layer up underneath and top it off with a 7mm hood and booties to stay warm. Wearing drysuits feels awkward at first, and if not put on correctly, you risk breaking a seal and ending up with a leak. It’s also important to “burp” the suits properly to avoid bobbing around like the Michelin Man. This year, they added high-visibility vests, which really helped the snorkel guides keep track of the snorkellers in the water. There were three guides in total: two drove the zodiacs and one stayed in the water with the snorkellers.
Snorkelling provided a unique perspective, a glimpse of the undersides of icebergs and the landscape from below the water’s surface. I couldn’t help but feel a bit jealous, but the Adelie penguins and the Weddell seal more than made up for it.
Back on the ship, we learned we were several hours away from the Antarctic Circle. Looking at Cruise Mapper made it feel more real, we were the southernmost passenger ship in the entire world.
Screenshot
Our New Year’s Eve dinner was interrupted in the best way possible—by humpback whales. Dinner paused as everyone rushed to the windows to watch these magnificent creatures glide through the calm waters. (not sure who this dude is)
Later that evening, we took part in a trivia competition, and to our surprise, our team—The Happy Whales—won! Our prize was a sketching kit, a bottle of champagne and a bucket of beer, which we carried up to the observation lounge on deck 8 to celebrate the arrival of the new year.
As midnight approached, we realised that the ship’s navigation had been perfectly timed to cross the Antarctic Circle right at the stroke of midnight.
Though it didn’t feel like midnight, thanks to the endless daylight, the moment was surreal.
There’s a quirky tradition onboard to stamp a circle on people’s heads with a sink-plug as part of the crossing ritual, adding a fun and festive touch to the experience.
For the first time in years, we actually stayed up for New Year’s Eve, though the perpetual daylight certainly helped. Crossing the Antarctic Circle at the turn of the year felt like the perfect way to start 2024—surrounded by breathtaking ice, wildlife, and a sense of wonder that only Antarctica can deliver.