Snow-capped mountains and a glacier towering over a calm sea with a ship in the distance.

Traveling from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia on the Ventus Australis

How to get from Torres del Paine to Ushuaia

With a week to spare before our expedition, I initially had the ambitious idea of driving from Torres del Paine to Ushuaia. We had five days and according to Google Maps, it was 12 hours of driving (not including a ferry crossing. Taking a rental car across the Chile-Argentina border turned out to be both complicated and expensive. After some research, I found a much more scenic option—a four-night cruise from Punta Arenas, Chile, to Ushuaia, Argentina on the Ventus Australis. So, as unconventional as it sounds, we embarked on a cruise… before our other cruise.
We left EcoCamp Patagonia early, after breakfast, and hit the road by 6:30 a.m., passing numerous buses ferrying people into Torres del Paine. After refueling in Puerto Natales, we reached Punta Arenas by 11 a.m.

Driving past Puerto Natales welcome sign with large statue on rainy day.

Navigating through the city’s traffic was a bit overwhelming, but we made it to the port and dropped off our bags. Despite arriving before the official check-in time, we convinced the staff to let us in early.
Entrance to the port in Punta Arenas with cruise ships docked in the background.
Travelers checking in at Australis cruise desk in Punta Arenas.
After dropping off our rental car, we grabbed a coffee and a second breakfast at a café by the water. By 1 p.m., we returned to the port for check-in, handed over our passports, and tagged our bags. After some time wandering around town in search of a pharmacy (thankfully, my pantomime skills worked for chapstick and toothpaste), we headed back to the port to board the Ventus Australis. Built in 2017, the ship was specifically designed to navigate the Chilean fjords. The Ventus Australis is approximately 89 meters (292 feet) long and has a capacity of 200 passengers. We lucked out and it was about half full. Every deck featured comfortable lounges, including the Darwin Lounge on deck 5, which boasted floor-to-ceiling windows on both sides for panoramic views.

Large white cruise ship docked at port under cloudy skies.

 

Spacious cruise ship lounge with large windows and comfortable seating.

Our cabin was an AA on deck 3. It had floor-to-ceiling window, a king bed, and a cozy chair, plus a small closet for our gear. Not the best photo, but you get the idea.
Cozy cruise ship cabin with bed and large window overlooking dock.
That evening, after a safety briefing, we set sail at 8 p.m.
Passengers wearing life jackets walking on cruise ship deck.
Dinner was served by two exceptionally attentive waiters who went out of their way to accommodate my food allergies. We were assigned a dedicated table and waiter for the entire cruise—and luckily, we didn’t have to share it with another couple (which can either be amazing or downright awkward). As with the eco camp, I wasn’t expecting much from the food but it was outstanding.

Day 1: Ainsworth Bay Hike and Penguin Watching at Tuckers Islets

We sailed 90 nautical miles overnight, arriving at Ainsworth Bay in the morning. Early riser coffee in the Sky Lounge was lively with chatter, and after breakfast, we chose our excursions. Andy tackled the more challenging moraine hike, while I opted for the forest walk. My hike was a gentle 3 km stroll through the lush landscape, filled with fascinating tidbits about the local flora and fauna, from lichen and moss to beavers and “devil strawberries” (“don’t eat, diahhrea” <– the comma is as important as the warning).
Panoramic view of tranquil shoreline with mountains and cloudy sky.
Forest with bare trees and dense grass near a small stream.
Meanwhile, Andy had stunning views from the moraine summit.

Panoramic view of fjord and mountains under a cloudy blue sky.

 

Group of hikers walking through lush greenery towards a lake and mountains.

 

Scenic panoramic view of islands and water under partly cloudy sky.

After lunch, the ship moved to Tucker Islets, where we went on a zodiac tour of a Magellanic penguin colony. Watching the penguins build nests along the shore, while spotting cormorant chicks and dolphins, was a definite highlight—though shooting photos from the bouncing zodiac proved a bit tricky.
Magellenic penguin standing on a rocky beach, surrounded by seaweed.
Magellanic penguin swimming through water
Magellenic penguin swimming in the water, head above the surface.
Magellanic penguin close up
In addition to the Magellanic penguins, we saw this family of upland geese. The white bird is a female, and the darker one with distinct black and white stripes is a male.
Male and female upland geese with goslings on a grassy, rocky terrain.
We also spotted this Chimango Caracara.
Brown hawk perched on rocky ledge with foliage in the background.
We were escorted back to the ship by several Peale’s dolphins.
Tourists on a boat watching a dolphin jump in the water.

Day 2: Pia Glacier Hike and Glacier Alley Booze Cruise

We sailed through the night again, covering 208 nautical miles to Pia Glacier. The morning rain didn’t dampen our spirits, and by the time we arrived, the clouds started to clear. We opted for the shorter, less muddy hike, which still involved a steep climb up slippery rocks. Ropes helped us along the way, and we were rewarded with the sight of glaciers calving into the bay below—an awe-inspiring moment.
Group of hikers climbing a rocky trail through a forested area.

Smiling couple posing in front of a glacier and mountains in Patagonia.

 

 

Close-up of jagged glacier with towering mountains in the background

 

Close-up of jagged glacier with towering mountains in the background

Tourists exploring a scenic landscape with a glacier, mountains, and a cloudy sky in Patagonia.
Back on the ship, we enjoyed hot chocolate (with an optional splash of whiskey) before entering Glacier Alley—a scenic stretch where we sailed past glaciers named after European countries. Each glacier was celebrated with its own themed drink and snack: German beer and sausages, French champagne and cheese, Italian wine, and fritters. It felt like a mini “around the world” booze cruise, all set against breathtaking views of the glaciers.
Waiter serving appetizers in a cruise ship dining area.
Turquoise water with glacier and snow-capped mountains in the background.
Turquoise water with glacier and snow-capped mountains in the background.

Day 3: Cape Horn and Wulaia Bay Hike

Christmas Day brought us to Cape Horn, but with the rain and wind picking up, I decided to enjoy the view from the comfort of the ship. Andy suited up for the excursion but ultimately decided to skip it as well, after watching soaked zodiacs struggle through the rough waters.
Small boat speeding through rough, misty waters with passengers in orange jackets
Monument on a grassy hill in foggy weather at Cape Horn, Chile

People wearing life vests climbing a steep set of stairs to the Cape Horn monument

That afternoon, we sailed to Wulaia Bay, an area rich in indigenous history. We had the choice of three hikes: the summit, the forest, or a beach walk. We opted for the forest hike, a moderate 4 km trek with some steep sections. The views at the top were stunning, but the intense wind had us descending quickly. We barely made it back to the ship before the captain, eager to beat the worsening weather, whisked us away.
Smiling couple posing on a hillside with a scenic view of islands and water below.

Day 4: Disembarking in Ushuaia, Argentina

We docked in Ushuaia early the next morning, concluding our journey through the Chilean fjords. Disembarkation was a bit chaotic as we weren’t entirely sure which group to join, so we ended up just leaving on our own and walking from the pier. We found a taxi after a few minutes, and he eagerly accepted $5 USD to take us to the Hotel Las Hayas.
Cruise ships docked at a port with snowy mountains in the background.

Reflections

We were pleasantly surprised by this cruise through the Chilean Fjords—perhaps because our only expectation was to get from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia. It turned out to be the perfect way to relax and soak in Patagonia’s raw beauty before our next big expedition. It gave us the ideal chance to decompress and savour Patagonia’s tranquility before embarking on the intense adventure that awaited us.

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