Ocean waves crashing in the Drake Passage during an Antarctica crossing

Drake Passage Sea Days: What to Expect on an Antarctica Expedition

With the help of the doc’s meclizine recommendation, we had the best sleep of the entire trip. We even missed our first breakfast. The outer decks were closed due to weather, which is fairly standard during Drake Passage sea days. For context, this is 4-meter seas.  A lot of people worry about the number […]

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Quark Ultramarine polar expedition ship at port in Ushuaia, gateway to Antarctica

Antarctica Embarkation Buenos Aires: What to Expect on Quark Ultramarine

This was the first time that our expedition had Antarctica embarkation in Buenos Aires. On previous expeditions, the expedition started in Ushuaia. We weren’t sure what to expect, and if this starting point would be a positive or a pain in the a$$. Neither of us slept much that night. We had already experienced several […]

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Inca tern close-up showing white moustache feathers, Chile

Where to see a Humboldt Penguin near Santiago (and Inca Tern too!)

We woke up to pouring rain. Normally that would have dampened the mood, but we were still glowing from the day before. Penguin number thirteen, the Fiordland crested, had delivered in spectacular fashion. Now the focus shifted. The entire trip had been built around Snow Hill. But first, we had to find a Humboldt penguin […]

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Fiordland penguin standing on rock with water droplets, West Coast New Zealand

Seeing the Fiordland Penguin at Lake Moeraki

Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge From Fox Glacier, it was a short drive to Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge. We traveled here for one reason. The Fiordland crested penguin. We had booked a garden view room and were assigned Room #10, which overlooked the river and felt like an unexpected upgrade. The lodge had this warm, slightly […]

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Glacier and snow-covered peaks in the Southern Alps, South Island, New Zealand

South Island Wildlife Road Trip: Kea, White Herons & West Coast Drive

Crossing to the West Coast If you aren’t familiar with South Island geography, Akaroa sits on the east coast. Our next destination, Lake Moeraki, is on the west coast. And in between? A rather inconvenient mountain range. This stretch became one of the most memorable parts of our South Island wildlife road trip experience. Google […]

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View over Akaroa Harbour from Banks Peninsula, New Zealand

Akaroa Wildlife Experiences: Dolphins & Penguins

Why Our 10-Week Antarctica Trip Started at an Airport Hotel Ever wondered who stays at airport hotels, other than people who’ve missed a flight? It’s now us. Our trip to Akaroa, New Zealand for wildlife experiences on the Banks Peninsula, started the night before. We live about two hours from the airport. For a 9am […]

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Exploring the Canadian Rockies: Canmore, Lake Louise, and Jasper

Isn’t This Trip Over Yet? After completing the side-quest to Newfoundland, we had to get back to the west coast of Canada for our return flight to Australia. Amazingly, we found a points-booking on Westjet via Calgary. The only problem is that it required a stopover in Calgary. Because of availability, the stopover could be […]

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Puffins of Bonavista: Close Encounters at Cape Bonavista Lighthouse

Just fifteen minutes from Elliston sits another excellent puffin location on the Bonavista Peninsula: the cliffs surrounding Cape Bonavista Lighthouse. While Elliston often gets the spotlight as Newfoundland’s best land-based puffin site, Bonavista quietly delivers fewer people and epic close encounters. The lighthouse itself dates to 1843 and stands on dramatic cliffs that jut into […]

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Puffins of Elliston: The Best Land-Based Puffin Viewing in Newfoundland

After leaving St. John’s, the first stretch north on the Trans-Canada Highway was smooth and easy. We found it slightly ironic, as just weeks earlier we had stood at the western end of the same highway in Tofino. Once we turned onto the Bonavista Peninsula, the potholes slowed us down and the landscape began to […]

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