African penguin walking on the sand beside kelp at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town, South Africa.

African Penguins in Simon’s Town: Our First Visit to Boulders Beach

True to form for the rest of this trip, our journey to Simon’s Town did not go according to plan. We’d basically lost an entire day after being forced to overnight in Johannesburg. But honestly, that was probably preferable to the alternative. Our original schedule would have had us driving from Cape Town to Simon’s […]

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Close-up portrait of a leopard partially concealed among green leaves in a tree.

An Unexpected MalaMala Safari in April

If you’ve been following along, you’ll know that a trip to Mala Mala Game Reserve wasn’t the plan. Which really was perfect, considering everything that had led up to this point. After unexpectedly disembarking in Cape Town, we checked into the Victoria & Alfred Hotel and had a lovely evening exploring the waterfront. After weeks […]

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Northern rockhopper penguin standing on dark volcanic rocks at Middle Island in the Tristan da Cunha archipelago.

Nightingale Island: The Landing We Couldn’t Count On

After four days at sea, the Tristan da Cunha archipelago was finally in sight. The plan was ambitious. We would visit Nightingale Island in the morning before moving to Tristan da Cunha in the afternoon. We needed to make the most of the day because the wind and swell were expected to increase, making further […]

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Close-up portrait of an Antarctic fur seal pup at Stromness, South Georgia.

Stromness, Gritviken & Four Days at Sea

After the frustrations of the previous day, it was a relief to wake to sunshine at Stromness. A Landing at Stromness It was still windy, but the forecast was improving, and for the first time on the voyage our Group 3 was called in the first round of landings. The gusts were still strong enough […]

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Mountainous coastline and turquoise waters of Jason Harbour on South Georgia under clearing skies.

Rain at Jason Harbour and the Wind Wins at Gritviken

The day began with another early start, with the first zodiacs scheduled to leave at 7:00 am for a cruise around Jason Harbour. The plan for the afternoon as a landing at Grytviken. We took one look at the weather. It was pouring rain. After yesterday’s zodiac cruise in similar conditions, we decided to sit […]

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Magellanic penguin surrounded by coastal vegetation at Gypsy Cove in the Falkland Islands.

A Day in Stanley and a Trip to Gypsy Cove

Our first sea day on the Silver Wind expedition felt typical and passed quickly. The day included a zodiac briefing, our first biosecurity inspection, a kayak briefing for those who had signed up, and the captain’s welcome. We had not signed up for kayaking, and I hadn’t even realized it was an option until the […]

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Inca tern close-up showing its red bill, yellow wattles and distinctive white facial plumes in Viña del Mar, Chile.

Birding in Santiago and Embarking on our Cape to Cape Expedition

This was the first expedition we had ever taken that started in Chile rather than Argentina, which immediately made the whole experience feel a little different. The expedition package included one night at the Mandarin Oriental Santiago, though we added a second night to give ourselves an extra day in the city before embarkation. Honestly, […]

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Northern Rockhopper penguin in front of rocky landscape at Middle Island

The Things We’ll do For Penguins: An Expedition from South America to Africa to (Hopefully) see the Northern Rockhopper

We have only had three penguin species remaining on our goal to see all 18 species. Two of them, the Northern Rockhopper and the Erect-created, were going to be challenging. The Northern Rockhopper Penguin lives on remote islands in the South Atlantic, in the Tristan da Cunha archipelago. Reaching them is not easy. In fact, […]

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