From the Galápagos to Bird Photography in Quito

What a difference a day makes. This next part of our story takes us from the Galapagos to Quito, where we nearly called the entire next part of the trip off, but decided to stick it out and were rewarded with three species of antpittas and some sword-billed hummingbirds at Zuroloma Reserve. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

We woke up at Santa Cruz Island on Christmas morning. Technically, we didn’t really wake up, because we hadn’t slept much at all. The rough conditions from the night before carried straight through, and by morning we were more than ready to be on solid ground again. Our journey back to the airport was slightly different from the arrival process. Instead of heading to the usual ferry point, we were already at the side of the channel where the boats refuel. That meant a much shorter transfer, with only about a ten-minute bus ride to the airport.

Even though our flight wasn’t until 12:40 p.m., we were dropped off around 8:30 a.m., which felt early but ultimately gave us time to move through everything without any stress.

Waiting at Baltra Airport

We checked in and then found a spot outside to sit with a coffee. I picked up a penguin hat and a Galápagos shirt, which felt like appropriate souvenirs given how the trip had started. It turned out there were actually more shops once you passed through security than before it, though the better café was definitely on the outside.

Back to Quito

After a short stop in Guayaquil, we continued on to Quito. By this point we were fully familiar with the airport routine and had no trouble finding the Holiday Inn shuttle. I’m fairly certain they even gave us the same room as before.

After several days on the water, it felt good to be somewhere completely still. As much as we had loved the wildlife, the snorkelling, and everything the Galápagos had to offer, the idea of a proper night’s sleep was just as appealing. Especially considering the next part of this adventure would begin in less than 24 hours.

A Much-Needed Reset

We really needed that good night of sleep.

The next phase of the trip was a private six-day bird photography tour in Quito and the surrounding Ecuadorian Andes, but thankfully we weren’t being picked up until 2 p.m.That gave us time for a slow morning. Hotel buffet breakfast, a late checkout, and a quiet lobby.

Eventually a man arrived in what looked like his own car. No taxi sign, no branding, nothing that suggested he was there for us. He wandered around for a while, then approached speaking Spanish. We didn’t get far with that conversation, but he showed me his phone, and there was my name in a WhatsApp message.

Apparently, this was our transfer.

A Rough Start in Quito

Things didn’t improve once we got in the car.

He nearly hit a motorcyclist pulling out of the hotel, went the wrong way twice, and at one point stopped in the middle of a highway to make a phone call. My Spanish is limited to things I learned in kindergarten, but unfortunately I didn’t need to ask how to get to the library or how much a red pencil costs, so I had him speak into Google translate.

Luckily I also know the Spanish words the words for left and right from horseback riding, so I was able to give basic directions. The roads on the outskirts of Quito are steep in a way that doesn’t really come across on a map, and the whole experience was stressful and chaotic. We eventually turned onto a dirt road leading toward the lodge, at which point he decided he didn’t want to go any farther. We were still a few kilometers away. After one final wrong turn at the driveway, Andy got out of the car and we decided it was safer to just carry our bags the rest of the way.

San Jorge Ecolodge Quito sits at around 3000m (9580 ft), which made that final walk feel longer than it should have.

First Impressions at San Jorge Ecolodge

The lodge manager met us when we arrived. We were both a little frazzled and trying to figure out what had just happened. Magic Birding had excellent reviews, and we had seen plenty of content from experienced photographers who had traveled with them. This was not the start we expected.

Our room was large and conveniently located near the restaurant, and we quickly realized we were the only guests at the lodge. Our guide wouldn’t be arriving until the next morning, which was not ideal. The lodge did have a lot more charm than the Holiday Inn.

There were a few hummingbirds around the upper terrace, but after Costa Rica it felt significantly underwhelming. We did manage one new hummingbird species though – a Shining Sunbeam.

We agreed to give it one more day to see how things felt with the guide and the morning activity before making a call. If it didn’t turn around, we’d cut our losses, ignore the sunk cost fallacy, and head back to the Holiday Inn.

Bird Photography Zuroloma Reserve

Breakfast was at 6 a.m., and once again we were the only ones there. We met our guide from Magic Birding, who explained that their usual driver hadn’t shown up the day before, which is how we ended up with the mystery transfer. It made sense, but it didn’t exactly undo the experience.

The plan for the morning was a visit to Zuroloma Reserve, located about 45 minutes away on a rough dirt road. The reserve sits at around 3,200 meters, and the altitude was noticeable as soon as we started moving. Fortunately, the walk to the feeding station was short, winding downhill along a series of switchbacks. Coming back up was a different story.

The site itself was excellent. A well-maintained garden with expansive views over the surrounding countryside, and no other people around.

Andy focused on photographing antpittas, managing to capture three different species.

I was more interested in the sword-billed hummingbirds. The sword-billed hummingbird is the only bird with a bill longer than its body, which means it has to perch differently and even preen using its feet instead of its beak. They are pretty impressive to see.

We ended up staying for nearly four hours.

A Better Afternoon

The afternoon was much quieter. We returned to the lodge for lunch, took a nap, and later experimented with a multi-flash hummingbird setup.

There wasn’t a huge amount of activity, but by that point it didn’t really matter. What did matter was that things felt different. The morning had been good. Our guide was solid. The location delivered. The experience had shifted from uncertainty to something that felt worth sticking with. By the end of the day, we both agreed. We were staying.