November 29, 2024December 3, 2024

Exploring the Best of Aitutaki and Rarotonga

How to spend a perfect week in the Cook Islands

In late October, I found myself staring at a massively selfish problem: I was 200 credits short of retaining my platinum status on Qantas. With our 25th wedding anniversary just weeks away, it hit me—why not turn this milestone celebration into a status run? Two birds, one stone.

The fastest way to rack up status credits is with an international flight, and out of Sydney, the simplest choice is New Zealand. The only challenge was that we already had a New Zealand trip planned for December. This is how we found ourselves on a status run to the Cook Islands.

Nestled in the heart of the South Pacific, the Cook Islands are a cluster of 15 islands spread across a vast expanse of ocean. For reference, the ocean surrounding the Cook Islands is three times the size of Texas. Rarotonga, the main island, is home to the capital and serves as the gateway to the archipelago. Despite being a self-governing territory, the Cook Islands maintain close ties to New Zealand, including the use of the New Zealand dollar.

The Journey Begins: Sydney to Melbourne

You can actually fly direct from Sydney to Rarotonga, but to maximise status credits, we took a circuitous route from Sydney to Melbourne to Auckland to Rarotonga. We caught an evening flight to Melbourne and stayed overnight at the Parkroyal Melbourne Airport. Pro tip: this hotel is ridiculously convenient, perched right by the terminal, so you can roll straight from domestic arrivals to your room in minutes. They’ve even spruced it up since our last visit, though it still gives Shining vibes in the corridors.

Morning Flight to Auckland

Bright and early, we boarded a 7 a.m. flight to Auckland, a quick 3.5-hour hop. The time zone change meant we landed just after noon, giving us a leisurely three-hour layover to navigate a connection I’d been slightly worried about.

We were flying on separate tickets, carry-on only, and I wasn’t sure if we’d need to clear immigration or switch terminals. Turns out, Auckland Airport was a breeze! The international transfer security checkpoint was right next to our gate, there was no line, and within minutes we were through with time to spare.

Jetstar to Rarotonga and Disorienting Time Travel

The Auckland to Rarotonga leg was on Jetstar, an airline that defines “no-frills,” but we snagged row 1 seats so at least had plenty of legroom. Those are not Andy’s #FlyingFeet

Passenger's bare feet resting on airplane bulkhead with Jetstar branding.

The 4-hour flight was made trippy by the 23-hour time difference between Auckland and Rarotonga. Essentially, we landed at 8 p.m. the day before we left. This must lead to lots of hotel booking mistakes, because it is mentioned about a dozen times when making online bookings.

Getting Around Raro

The airport shuttle was a hefty NZD 60 per person each way, so we opted to rent a car from Avis for half the price. We drive a 2017 Corolla so aren’t car snobs. Let’s just say the rental was on the older side and possibly in need of a tune up.

Without an eSIM (Vodafone doesn’t offer them before you arrive) and with the airport Vodafone booth closed, we relied on a paper map from Avis. “Just turn right; it’s just the other side of town,” they said. Turns out, that’s solid advice—Raro has one 36km road that loops the entire island making it hard to get lost.

One Night at Club Raro

Since our final destination was Aitutaki, we had to overnight on Rarotonga. The catch? The last flight to Aitutaki departs at 6 p.m., so we had to stay overnight and most accommodations on Raro have a two-night minimum. After combing through options, we landed on Club Raro, which allowed one-night stays, was just 10 minutes from the airport, and was adults-only.

Now, let’s be clear: this wasn’t the “zen and peaceful” kind of adults-only. It was the “loud bar with pumping doof doof music” kind. We arrived in the middle of the weekly fire-dancing show.

Fire dancers performing at a tropical night show

After navigating a maze of dark walkways, we discovered our room—conveniently located next to the massive outdoor speaker. That said, the fire-dancing show was pretty good, the music stopped at 10 p.m., and it was fine for a layover night.

Saturday Morning at the Punanga Nui Market

With our Air Rarotonga flight to Aitutaki scheduled for 11:30 a.m., we had a leisurely morning to explore one of Rarotonga’s must-do experiences (according to the internet): the Punanga Nui Market.

The market is held every Saturday morning in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, and when we arrived at 8 a.m., it was still waking up. Within the hour, though, it was a hive of activity—stalls overflowing with fresh produce, handmade crafts, island-inspired clothing, and the tempting smells of local food.

Punanga Nui Market entrance with colorful stalls

Our first stop? Vodafone, where we finally picked up an eSIM. With connectivity sorted, we grabbed coffee from Reefside Coffee, and treated ourselves to freshly baked donuts from Baby Pancakes.

Baby Pancakes food stand with colorful design

The market is an easy 10-minute drive from the airport, so we were back with plenty of time to spare. The domestic and international terminals in Rarotonga sit right next to each other, making navigation effortless. Returning the rental car was equally casual: park anywhere in the lot, drop the keys in the slot, and off you go.

We’d arrived at the airport 90 minutes early, but since Air Rarotonga is as laid-back as the island itself, I was able to use their app to switch to an earlier flight departing in just 30 minutes. The domestic terminal is open-air, and home to free-roaming chickens and fluffy chicks.

Air Rarotonga plane on runway with lush mountain view

Airport terminal view with tropical scenery and mountains

Vibrant rooster standing on green grass in sunlight

From One Paradise to Another

Having arrived in Rarotonga after dark, we hadn’t appreciated its barrier reef.

Airplane wing view of tropical coastline and ocean

The flight from Rarotonga to Aitutaki is a quick hop—less than an hour—but it delivers views that feel like they belong in a travel documentary.

Aerial view of turquoise lagoon and remote island

Touching down at the small Aitutaki Airport, we were welcomed by a representative from our resort, who draped fragrant Tiare Maori leis around our necks. They smelled like gardenia, and I learned that they are indeed a type of gardenia.

Smiling woman offering fresh flower lei garland

Even though we were travelling with carry-on bags, we had to check them for this flight due to the smaller plane. Baggage claim was a truck pulling up to the front of the airport with a trailer full of luggage. And there would also be no shortage of carrots during our visit.

Travelers with luggage waiting at a small airport terminal

After collecting our bags, it was a short ten-minute drive to the ferry.

Dock arrival at tropical resort with lush palm trees

A narrow channel separates Aitutaki’s main island from the Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort.

Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort

Stepping off the ferry, we were greeted by the soft strumming of a ukulele as a smiling local musician set the tone for our arrival. The resort’s open-air reception area is an inviting long house with dazzling lagoon views.

Spacious tropical resort lobby with open-air design

Despite arriving before check-in time, our room was ready early. We’d booked a Premium Beachfront Bungalow, one of just nine freestanding bungalows nestled in a half-moon curve along pristine white sand. Towering palm trees provided shade, and the turquoise lagoon lapped gently just steps away. The design of the bungalows balances simplicity with comfort: our terrace had two lounge chairs for relaxed afternoons, and each bungalow was assigned a pair of loungers closer to the water, along with kayaks and paddleboards for exploring the lagoon and bikes for exploring the island.

Cozy tropical bungalow room with wooden decor

Palm-lined beach with hammocks and turquoise water

Beachfront deck with lounge chairs and ocean view

Bicycles resting on the white sandy beach of Aitutaki, surrounded by swaying palm trees and turquoise lagoon views.

What to do in Aitutaki

Paddleboarding – Aitutaki’s lagoon is the stuff paddleboarding dreams are made of—as long as the wind is calm. At first, we ambitiously considered paddling around the entire private island, but we quickly realised that the channel’s northeastern entrance is blocked. Instead, we explored in shorter bursts, venturing out a few times both on the south side of the resort and the northwest side. Paddleboarding here felt like gliding through an AI-generated tropical postcard.
Kayaking – The resort also provided kayaks, which offered another way to explore the lagoon. While they didn’t have the back support we’d enjoyed on our last kayaking adventure in Kona, Hawaii, the experience was still incredible. Aitutaki’s lagoon is shallow in many areas, so tides and reef shoes are your best friends—you’ll need them if you want to get out and walk across the sandy flats. One highlight was paddling over to Angarei Island, a tiny, uninhabited islet where we could stretch our legs and take in the lagoon from a different vantage point.
Private Lagoon Cruise with T’s Tours – Our standout experience was a full-day (9am to 2pm) private lagoon cruise with T’s Tours, which the resort arranged for us. Most tours don’t run on Sundays, so we practically had the lagoon to ourselves, spotting only one other boat the entire day. Unlike group tours, the private cruise allowed us to visit more secluded spots, including Honeymoon Island, where we snorkelled with giant trevally, Napoleon wrasse, and other marine life. The snorkelling in the lagoon was spectacular—giant clams, vivid purple coral, and friendly sergeant majors. We even spotted turtles and a graceful eagle ray, gliding effortlessly beneath us. The price difference between a private tour and the group tour was only $50 per person so 10/10 would recommend.
Stargazing – Our visit coincided with the new moon, creating perfect conditions for stargazing. With no light pollution, the night sky over the Cook Islands was pretty spectacular (until the clouds rolled in). Venus was so bright that it actually created a starburst in the image.

Where to eat in Aitutaki

HMS Bounty (At the Resort): Serving three meals daily, this was our go-to for convenience. Breakfast, included in our stay, featured a buffet with an omelette station and unlimited drinking coconuts.We also enjoyed a few lunches and dinners here, including the cultural show on Monday night.
Blue Lagoon: A short walk from the resort (across the channel by ferry), this was hands-down the best meal we had on the island. We went at sunset, which was stunning, though you’ll want to bring sunnies as it faces west. As a bonus, there was a friendly cat who convinced us he was starving and needed some rib-eye scraps.
The Boat Shed: Another short walk from the ferry, this spot had a relaxed, beachy vibe. While we didn’t try the food, we stopped in for a cold beer and enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere.
Koru Café: Also within walking distance, this café is a favourite for both locals and visitors. We tried to have lunch here one day but found it absolutely packed. Instead, we grabbed a takeaway iced coffee, which turned out to be the best coffee of our stay—even it is cost $8 NZD.

Rarotonga: Stunning Beaches, Vibrant Markets, and a Dose of Adventure

After four blissful days in Aitutaki, it was time to return to Rarotonga. The journey began with an 11:30 a.m. flight, though not without a little hiccup—our resort forgot to transfer our luggage to the airport. Thankfully, with the airport just 10 minutes away, they quickly retrieved it, and we made our flight with about five minutes to spare.

Aitutaki Airport's open-air terminal with relaxed seating and tropical decor, providing a laid-back departure experience.

The flight back offered one last aerial view of Aitutaki’s jaw-dropping lagoon before landing in Raro’s green, mountainous north shore.

A stunning aerial view of Aitutaki's turquoise lagoon and motus, framed by the airplane wing during departure.

This time, we upgraded our rental car to a slightly larger vehicle—a RAV4—but despite the added space, it was no newer than the last rental. With a chocolate croissant from Rarotonga Bakery in hand (seriously, Raro’s bakeries are underrated), we set off to explore the other side of the island – this time travelling anti-clockwise.

Little Polynesian Resort: Paradise Found

Twenty minutes later, we arrived at the Little Polynesian Resort, and from the moment we stepped out of the car, we were blown away. This boutique adults-only resort has just 14 rooms, making it intimate and incredibly serene.

Our beachfront bungalow was a dream—situated on powdery white sand, with uninterrupted views of a turquoise lagoon. The resort itself is a masterclass in elegance, with a small infinity pool overlooking the beach and a stunning open-air restaurant that offers exceptional service and even better food.

A row of charming beachfront bungalows surrounded by palm trees at the Little Polynesian Resort.
Lush tropical pathway leading to a private bungalow at the Little Polynesian Resort.
Elegant and serene interior of a beachfront bungalow at the Little Polynesian Resort.
Stunning view from the beachfront bungalow at the Little Polynesian Resort, overlooking the turquoise lagoon.

What to do in Rarotonga

Stand-Up Paddleboarding – The resort offered complimentary paddleboards and kayaks for guests. The boards were inflatable, similar to what we have at home, though they could have used a few more PSI for stability. Andy’s paddleboard lacked fins, but as there was no current it wasn’t that big of a deal.
Block Printing and Tie-Dye Workshop – We spent one morning with Norma at Tie Dye Rarotonga for a block printing workshop. This activity was a hidden gem I’d booked after reading a review about the Little Polynesian. We started with a simple sarong but decided to tie-dye a doona cover I’d brought from home. The process was creative and fun—after tie-dyeing, we laid giant leaves on the fabric in the sun to create natural patterns.
Cross-Island Track Hike – This challenging 8km trail cuts right through the centre of Rarotonga, climbing steep terrain before descending through lush forest. While the manager at the Little Polynesian, guidebooks, AND the signage recommend hiking north to south for two reasons. One, the southern part of the track is more overgrown and the route markers are less obvious. And two, the north part is shorter and steeper at the beginning. We opted for south to north, because I didn’t want to start with short and steep.It took us about three hours to complete, and if we did it again we would definitely do south to north again. There were some slippery rocks, river crossings, and the occasional overgrown path, but not as challenging as we expected. Two things which worked in our favour were that it hadn’t rained recently (less slippery) and it was a partly cloudy day.

Tips for the Cross Island Track in Rarotonga:
From the south side, it’s a 1.3-kilometer uphill walk (or downhill depending on which way you hike) from Main Road.
There is a $5 fee per car to drive from Main Road to the start of the track on the south side.
From the north side, it’s a longer but more gradual 2.5-kilometer incline (or downhill depending on which way you hike) from Main Road.
If you get dropped of at one end and picked up at the other, it’s basically a 4-kilometer hike.
We parked at the south entrance, and then called a taxi. The only challenge we had was describing where we were 🙂

Where to Eat in Rarotonga

Resort Restaurant: Overlooking the pool and beach, this restaurant was exceptional. The included continental breakfast was fresh and individually served (rather than a buffet), and included fruit, pastries, yogurt, granola, and more. We had dinner here one evening, and it’s clear why it’s rated #2 on the island.
Muri Night Market: Held four nights a week (though not Friday or Saturday), this vibrant market was a must-visit. We sampled ribs, pork belly fried rice, and churros from ChurBros.
Charlie’s: A short walk down the beach, Charlie’s is a laid-back beach bar with an unbeatable view. Pro tip: book ahead or arrive just before 5 p.m. to snag a walk-in tables.
Cook Islands Coffee Company: For early risers like us, this little spot was a godsend. It took a few tries to find (signage is sparse), but once we did, the coffee and pastries were worth every bit of effort.
Saturday Market: Of course, we couldn’t resist a return trip to the Punanga Nui Market. This time, we doubled down on the delicious donuts and added baby pancakes to the mix.

Returning to Sydney

Our flight home wasn’t exactly ideal. We departed Rarotonga at 2:30 a.m. on Sunday and landed in Auckland at 6 a.m. Monday (thank you, international date line). A tight connection in Auckland meant we landed in Sydney at 9 a.m. While it was exhausting, it saved me a day of annual leave—so no complaints. Would I do it again? Absolutely.

The Cook Islands are a hidden gem in the South Pacific, offering uncrowded beaches, unpretentious charm, and the convenience of direct flights from Sydney. With its dry season running from April to November, it’s the perfect escape from Sydney’s “winter” (though, let’s be honest, winter in Sydney hardly requires fleeing).

Even with a last-minute itinerary, this trip exceeded our expectations in every way. Next time, I’d make two small tweaks: book the overnight flight from Sydney to connect directly to Aitutaki and return on the daytime direct flight to Sydney. Beyond that, or maybe adding on a 3 hour hop over to Tahiti, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Golden sunset over calm ocean with sunbeams through clouds.