Ship's bow facing an open sea at sunset with orange skies

Embarkation Day: Setting Sail for New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands

Our day kicked off with a hearty buffet breakfast and a picture-perfect weather day for Queenstown. Following the instructions provided by Heritage, we checked out of our room and dropped our bags at the hotel reception by 9 AM. We had some time to spare, so we walked over to the gondola. Despite the steep […]

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Scenic aerial view of Queenstown with lake and mountain backdrop

Our “Galapagos of the Southern Ocean” Expedition Officially Begins

The centrepiece of our trip to New Zealand was a 10 night ‘Galapagos of the Southern Ocean‘ expedition. After being captivated by the documentary “Edge of Nowhere,” and having previously visited South Georgia for penguin watching, the NZ subantarctic islands, and Macquarie Island—a part of Tasmania—seemed like a closer, equally thrilling alternative. The expedition was […]

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Calm reflective fjord surrounded by forested mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

Overnight Cruise in Doubtful Sound with Fiordland Expeditions

When booking our Airbnb in Te Anau, our host wisely advised us to schedule activities in advance due to the high season rush. He also recommended visiting Doubtful Sound and, if possible, staying overnight. Taking his advice, we adjusted our dates, even though this meant one less night in Te Anau. Doubtful Sound is less […]

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Serene fjord with forested cliffs, snow-capped peaks, and low-lying clouds

Te Anau and Milford Sound

The slight wine-induced haze from last night—yes, three glasses now count as a big night in my mid-life—made for a slow start to the morning. Andy fetched our coffee from the lobby, just as we got a text from our Airbnb host inviting us to check in early. Motivated by the prospect of settling in […]

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The Shortest Expedition Cruise Ever

Wild Alaska on the National Geographic Sea Lion with Lindblad Expditions Our six-day expedition started in Sitka and ended in Juneau, offering activities such as hiking, kayaking, paddleboarding, and fly fishing. We planned to explore glaciers and fjords, and hope to spot wildlife including moose, bears, bald eagles, puffins, sea lions, orcas, otters, and humpbacks. […]

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Group of Magellanic penguins walking on the beach, with a King penguin standing behind them.

Saunders Island: The Perfect End to Our Expedition

The Grand Finale In the afternoon, we made our way to Saunders Island. Another wet zodiac ride brought us ashore, where we encountered a massive gentoo penguin colony right at the landing site. Walking a bit farther, we discovered grazing sheep and Magellanic penguins burrowing into the hillside. The orange route markers made it resemble […]

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A Black-browed albatross flying over a rocky nesting colony with other albatrosses near the ocean cliffs on a sunny day.

The Rockhoppers and Albatross at West Point Island

The Unexpected Beauty of the Falklands When I mentioned our expedition was heading to the Falklands, most people gave me a puzzled look. Like many, my only association with the Falkland Islands was their role in the 1982 war—until we visited last year. The islands are bursting with diverse bird life, from penguins to albatross, […]

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Seabird flying over a deep blue ocean under a partly cloudy sky.

A Slow Slog to the Falklands

Two Days Tuns into Three To avoid the worst of the winds—what we affectionately called the “purples”—the ship changed course. This detour added another day to our already two-day journey between South Georgia and the Falklands. Honestly, I was perfectly content staying in the cabin. I spent hours looking through the images and video from […]

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A large, weathered bone lies among smooth pebbles, brown seaweed, and vibrant red algae on a rocky beach.

Afternoon on the Beach at Godthul

Not the Typical Beach Day In the afternoon, we had two options. The first was a 6km, one-way hike to Sandebugten, which was promoted as being even more difficult than the Shackleton walk, and promised no wildlife. The second option was a more relaxed walk along the beach, with the chance to explore a gentoo […]

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