Cruise ship anchored in a calm bay surrounded by green hills

Christmas at Sea and the Wonders of Campbell Island

 
Christmas Day aboard the Heritage Adventurer was all about eating, beginning with an extensive brunch instead of the usual breakfast.
We had most of the day to relax, with the exception of a presentation by Nigel Marvin about his experience filming nature documentaries, and another round of bio-securing our gear. The celebrations culminated in a lavish six-course early dinner. I opted for lobster while Andy opted for turkey with all the traditional trimmings.

 

 

After a day at sea indulging in holiday cheer, we arrived at Perseverance Harbour on Campbell Island, greeted by the sights of numerous seals swimming around the ship.

Group of seals swimming in cold ocean water

Our excursion options were diverse, each offering unique experiences:

  • Northwest Bay Walk: An all-day, demanding 12km trek with a double crossing of a 220m high ridge. This walk focused on mega herbs and departed at 7 AM with a packed lunch and, notably, a ‘poo bag.’
  • Mount Honey Walk: A 7km hike with 600m elevation gain offering views of mega herbs and wildlife including the royal albatross and snipe, also requiring a packed lunch and poo bag.
  • Zodiac Cruise and Col Lyall Boardwalk: This less demanding option promised close encounters with New Zealand sea lions, teals, terns, petrels, southern royal albatross, and yellow-eyed penguins.

Plastic bin labeled "Toilet Kit" with sign requesting return of unused kits on a table with maps and brochures

Opting for wildlife sightings over lengthy hikes with poo bags, we chose the morning Zodiac cruise and the afternoon boardwalk.

The highlight of the zodiac cruise was a lively sea lion colony bustling with playful pups. They were high on a hillside covered in tussock, and there was a creche of pups covered in mud along the shoreline.

Large colony of seals in tall coastal grass

Group of wet seal pups resting on dark rocks

Side profile of dark-furred seal looking alert

Close-up of seal with wet fur and white whiskers

We also saw flightless teal and arctic terns, but the highlight (for the birders) was spotting a red knot. This little grey bird migrates to New Zealand from Siberia and is apparently quite rare for Campbell Island.

Small shorebird standing on mossy, lichen-covered rock

The afternoon’s boardwalk hike was a dry landing, meaning we could wear hiking shoes instead of our muckboots. The muckboots are heavy and hiking shoes give much better support so this was great news. The clouds had lifted giving way to perfect hiking weather and we were welcomed to the landing site by several New Zealand Sea Lions. One even led us up the first part of the boardwalk. Sea lions can walk on land because they have flexible rear flippers that can rotate forward, allowing them to move all four flippers under their bodies to walk or even run – and they are surprisingly quick.

Person observing seals near water on cloudy day

Seal on grassy trail surrounded by dense shrubs

 

It was slow going at first because we kept getting distracted by small birds and megafauna.

 

Brown speckled bird in tall green grass

Fluffy brown bird perched on grassy plan

Small brown bird hidden in green shrubs

Cluster of purple flowers with green leaves

Large purple wildflower in tall meadow grass

Silvery rosette plant beside ribbed green leaves

Dew-covered wildflowers in lush greenery

Bright green lichen growing on tree branch

Moss and lichen growing on a forest surface

 

Our destination was a Southern Royal Albatross colony. The majority of the 7km hike was on 18-inch slatted boardwalk with outstanding views of the surrounding landscapes. We were thankful we’d dressed in layers because it got warm when we were out of the wind.

Scenic bay with cruise ship and research huts

Expedition cruise ship in remote island bay

Lush green highland landscape with protected calm bays

Rolling hills and valley leading to ocean bay

Hikers on mountain trail under cloudy sky

Photographer on boardwalk in grassy terrain

 

I was expecting a colony like the Falklands but this was entirely different. The birds nested far from each other rather than clustered together in a group.

Southern royal albatross nesting in tall grass

The wind had picked back up, providing perfect soaring conditions.

Photographer overlooking rugged coastal cliffs

Smiling hikers with ocean cliffs in background

Southern royal albatross with wings and feet extended
Southern royal albatross with wings extended
Closeup of southern royal albatross
Southern royal albatross flying over tussock covered hillside
Southern royal albatross flying over tussock covered hillside
Side view of southern royal albatross
We had a few good photobombs as well.
Southern royal albatross being photobombed by another southern royal albatross
As evening approached and all passengers returned from their various adventures, we had yet another round of biosecurity inspections as the ship navigated north along the east coast of Campbell Island. Our destination was Bull Rock, home to a colony of 27,000 Campbell albatross. As with previous cruise-by sighting, it takes a while to realise what you are seeing; what first appeared as mere dots became a spectacular display of albatross soaring above the cliffs in the perfect afternoon light.
Seabird colony nesting on steep grassy cliffs
Dense nesting seabirds covering grassy cliff ledges
Seabirds flying near rocky cliff against blue sky
And that was just one side of the ship! Black browed albatross, grey headed albatross, and Campbell island albatross circled the ship in perfect afternoon light.
Black-browed albatross gliding over ocean
Albatross flying with wings outstretched mid-air
Soaring black-browed albatross against blue sky
Albatross gliding low over choppy ocean waves
Albatross flying with wings spread in clear sky
Albatross soaring above calm open sea
Cape petrel flying over deep blue ocean

You may also like