Snorkelling with Harbour Seals in Vancouver

After four days in Tofino, we made our way back to Nanaimo for another night at the Courtyard by Marriott. Another upgraded room, another glamorous view of the car park. The bonus this time was fast internet and, more importantly, a working phone. The stars aligned and we managed to snag Qantas reward seats for Newfoundland (on WestJet). A quick call later, our flights were adjusted, and we began planning how to spend a week in Calgary (well, not Calgary proper, but the nearby mountains). Accommodation options were slim in peak season, Banff and Lake Louise were eye-wateringly expensive, and Canadians were holidaying at home rather than heading south to the US this year. Still, we had the flights, and the car I sneakily booked a few weeks back, so the rest could wait.

The next morning brought another glorious weather day for the ferry back to Horseshoe Bay. According to the map, our Airbnb was only a 10-minute drive from the terminal. And yes, we primarily selected it because it had a kitchen. Having a kitchen is not just about saving money; when you are allergic to onions going out to dinner is a minefield.

Exiting the highway felt like entering another world. The Caulfield neighbourhood was undeniably upscale: sprawling homes, manicured gardens, mature trees, and ocean views. Our Airbnb was a charming cottage above the owner’s garage. It had everything we needed — one bedroom, a bathroom, a lounge, and a kitchen — plus a stunning ocean view. The highlight, however, was two active hummingbird feeders on the terrace (oh, and they had a cat).

Andy may have looked a little creepy sitting outside with a 600mm lens, but the photos were spectacular. Watching those jewel-like birds dart in and out made us even more excited for our upcoming Costa Rica and Panama trips.

Originally, Vancouver was supposed to be the start of this Canadian adventure. We were meant to fly straight here from Australia and use the three days here to recover from jetlag. Instead, it became rest and recovery from four weeks of back-to-back mini holidays and a mini Inside Passage cruise.

Aside from laundry and catching our breath, we had one planned activity: snorkelling with harbour seals. Ever since seeing my first one in Prince Rupert, I had been ready to get into the water with these big-eyed pinnipeds.

We booked with Sea Dragon Charters out of Horseshoe Bay. They provided thick wetsuits (5 mm), while we brought our own masks and snorkels. Borrowing a snorkel is never appealing, even sanitised, and our prescription masks are non-negotiable if we want to actually see.

The weather was again uncharacteristically perfect for British Columbia, with blue skies and warm sunshine. The boat ride to the colony took about 30 minutes into calm Howe Sound. We first cruised by one rocky outcrop, where dozens of seals were basking in the sun, before moving to another island for snorkelling.

Slipping quietly into the water was surreal. Unlike Australian sea lions that demand constant movement, or dolphins that respond to squealing, harbour seals require silence and stillness. At first they were shy, but curiosity soon got the better of them. They circled closer, nibbling at fins or brushing up against our legs. The water was not crystal clear, which made their sudden appearances even more surprising. Their faces, with those round eyes and whiskered snouts, were almost impossibly cute.

After a few relaxing days with hummingbirds, seals, and sunshine, it was time to head to Vancouver Airport for our flight to Winnipeg, inching ever closer to the star destination of this Canadian adventure.