Hiking the Abel Tasman Coast Track (well, part of it)

As we left Kaikoura, the weather shifted back to windy and rainy conditions, setting the tone for our 3-hour scenic drive to Nelson. Nelson was a strategic stop for us: We planned to drop off our rental car and leave most of our luggage at the hotel, returning to collect it after our time in the park.

We checked into the Harbourside Lodge, conveniently located in the marina and within walking distance to several restaurants. With 315 reviews and a five-star rating, and under $250 a night, it seemed like a steal. The room was lovely, and the manager was incredibly helpful, aiding us in our plans and providing local tips. We packed what we would need for the next three days into a small collapsible duffel bag and left the rest in the office at the lodge.

Abel Tasman National Park is named after the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, the first European to sight New Zealand in 1642. Known for its golden beaches, granite cliffs, and the renowned Abel Tasman Coast Track, this park offers one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks.” The track, spanning 60 kilometres, provides opportunities for both walking and kayaking, featuring stunning views and encounters with native birdlife.

We booked three nights at Awaroa Lodge, accessible only by walking or water taxi, enhancing the seclusion and tranquility of our stay. We arranged our transportation via the Sea Shuttle, which included a bus transfer from Nelson to Kaiteriteri, the primary launch point for trips into the park. The weather cleared to perfection as we embarked on the hour and a half journey from Kaiteriteri to Awaroa, making brief stops along the way. There were two other passengers travelling to Awaroa Lodge, but they disembarked at Tonga Quarry opting to walk the last part of the journey. This seemed like a great idea and I was jealous of their foresight, especially given the outstanding weather.

The Awaroa Lodge was upscale, reminiscent of lodges we’d experienced in Africa, complete with a common lounge, bar, and a restaurant that served three meals daily. An outdoor pizza station catered not only to lodge guests but also to passing hikers during the day.

Our superior room featured a large sitting area and a terrace overlooking the marsh, providing serene views and a perfect backdrop for relaxation after our hikes. The area around the lodge was some of the best we’d experienced for bird photography. We learned to wait near the New Zealand Flax for great shots of bellbird, tui, and silvereye.

Over three days, we covered about 40 kilometres according to my watch. The hikes required attention to tidal timings, and we often had to prepare for water crossings by removing our shoes.

With this trip complete, our plans to return and tackle the section from Marahau to Medlands are already brewing, promising yet another adventure in the stunning landscapes of New Zealand.