Cruise ship anchored in a calm bay surrounded by green hills

Christmas at Sea and the Wonders of Campbell Island

 
Christmas Day aboard the Heritage Adventurer was all about eating, beginning with an extensive brunch instead of the usual breakfast. We had most of the day to relax, with the exception of a presentation by Nigel Marvin about his experience filming nature documentaries, and another round of bio-securing our gear. The celebrations culminated in a lavish six-course early dinner. I opted for lobster while Andy opted for turkey with all the traditional trimmings.

 

After a day at sea indulging in holiday cheer, we arrived at Perseverance Harbour on Campbell Island, greeted by the sights of numerous seals swimming around the ship.

 

Our excursion options were diverse, each offering unique experiences:

  • Northwest Bay Walk: An all-day, demanding 12km trek with a double crossing of a 220m high ridge. This walk focused on mega herbs and departed at 7 AM with a packed lunch and, notably, a ‘poo bag.’
  • Mount Honey Walk: A 7km hike with 600m elevation gain offering views of mega herbs and wildlife including the royal albatross and snipe, also requiring a packed lunch and poo bag.
  • Zodiac Cruise and Col Lyall Boardwalk: This less demanding option promised close encounters with New Zealand sea lions, teals, terns, petrels, southern royal albatross, and yellow-eyed penguins.

 

Opting for wildlife sightings over lengthy hikes with poo bags, we chose the morning Zodiac cruise and the afternoon boardwalk.

The highlight of the zodiac cruise was a lively sea lion colony bustling with playful pups.

We saw flightless teal and arctic terns, but the highlight (for the birders) was spotting a red knot. This little grey bird migrates to New Zealand from Siberia and is apparently quite rare for Campbell Island.

The afternoon’s boardwalk hike was a dry landing, meaning we could wear hiking shoes instead of our muckboots. The muckboots are heavy and hiking shoes give much better support so this was great news.

The clouds had lifted giving way to perfect hiking weather and we were welcomed to the landing site by several New Zealand Sea Lions.

The majority of the 7km hike was on 18-inch slatted boardwalk with outstanding views of the surrounding landscapes.

Our destination was a Southern Royal Albatross colony. I was expecting a colony like the Falklands but this was entirely different. The birds nested far from each other rather than clustered together in a group. The strong winds also provided perfect soaring conditions.

As evening approached and all passengers returned from their various adventures, we had yet another round of biosecurity inspections as the ship navigated north along the east coast of Campbell Island. Our destination was Bull Rock, home to a colony of 27,000 Campbell albatross. Approaching the rock was transformative; what first appeared as mere dots became a spectacular display of albatross soaring above the cliffs in the perfect afternoon light. This moment, akin to focusing a camera lens, brought the grandeur of nature into sharp relief, offering a profound end to an unforgettable day.

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