Colony of king penguins densely packed on rocky ground

A Glorious Day at Sandy Bay

The morning greeted us with a calm anchorage at Sandy Bay, a spot celebrated for its easily accessible colonies of king and royal penguins. The bay also serves as a breeding ground for elephant and fur seals, making it a hub of wildlife activity. The calmer weather made boarding the zodiacs a breeze compared to previous day. We did a short zodiac cruise to visit a nearby Rockhopper Penguin colony. The view wasn’t the best from the zodiacs, but still very cool to see another species.

Three macaroni penguins on rocky, kelp-covered shore

Rockhoppers are a crested penguin, like Royals and Macaroni. They have a black face like a Macaroni, but thin yellow eyebrows, which extend behind their eyes and then become spikey and black. Unlike many other penguins that waddle, rockhoppers are known for their ability to hop over rocks and rough terrain. These are southern rockhoppers. Northern rockhopper are found in Tristan da Cunha and Gough Island (middle of the Atlantic between Africa and South America), and have longer and more pronounced crest feathers.

Macaroni and royal penguins standing on rocks and a rockhopper penguin standing on a grassy hillside

 

Once ashore at Sandy Bay, Andy and I split up to capture unique perspectives with our cameras, ensuring we wouldn’t end up with identical photos. The landing site was divided into four main areas: a massive king penguin colony to the north; a beach dotted with elephant seals and royal penguins; a smaller group of king penguins near the southern river; and an elevated boardwalk area hosting a royal penguin colony, which was off-limits because they were breeding.

Sandy Bay is home to a massive population of around 170,000 breeding pairs of king penguins. There is a rope to keep visitors from walking through the colony, though the penguins didn’t always respect the boundary.

Large group of king penguins standing together

Dense colony of king penguins with yellow necks

Two king penguins displaying in crowded colony

Two king penguins touching beaks affectionately

Close-up of king penguin head and orange beak

King penguin with wet feathers facing camera

 

The beach was lined with elephant seals and royal penguins. We tried to respect the distance rules, but the penguins were super curious which made it impossible to stay more than 5 meters away. If you backed up from one group, others seemed to approach from behind. It was pretty awesome 🙂

Elephant seal stretching on black sand beach

Two elephant seal pups resting on dark sand

Elephant seal pup entering ocean surf

 Elephant seals fighting near penguin colony

Royal penguin preening feathers in dark light

Group of royal penguins swimming in ocean

Royal penguin with wet crest on sandy shore

Royal penguin walking on black sand beach

Group of royal penguins huddled near surf

Photographer on beach surrounded by penguins

 

The kings near the southern river seemed to be further along in their catastrophic moult, which looked very uncomfortable.

 

Molting king penguins in dense nesting colony

Moulting king penguin standing on black sand beach

 

We were permitted to go to the top of the stairs to see the megafauna, but the royal colony further down the boardwalk was off limits. Andy went up to take a look, but the megafauna weren’t in bloom yet. He also get a glimpse of the colony from a distance.

 

Lush coastal cliffs with dense green vegetation

Close-up of thick, velvety green plant leaves

Macaroni penguin colony with chicks on muddy ground

The two hours passed in the blink of an eye, and before we knew it, it was time to put on our life jackets and head back to the ship.

King penguin standing near bins of life jackets

Back on board, we were thrilled to learn that we’d be granted an additional hour in the afternoon to revisit this extraordinary place. Over lunch, Andy and I strategised our return: I opted to bring a 360 camera to capture panoramic views, and we both planned to experiment with intentional camera movement techniques.

King penguin incubating egg under belly

Yellow feathers of moulting king penguin

Close-up of penguin feet on sandy ground

Royal penguins sparring in shallow surf

Royal penguin charging out of ocean surf

Three royal penguins on rocky beach near ocean

Curious royal penguins peering into camera lens

Motion-blurred king penguin colony gathering

Abstract image of king penguin in colony

After dinner, the day concluded with a fascinating talk from Charles Bergman, the author known for visiting every penguin species in the world. He spoke about the “penguin glow”—a joyful aura one carries after encountering these charming creatures. Reflecting on our experiences, it was clear: our day at Sandy Bay had indeed left us with a profound penguin glow. It was on par with my fondest memory of South Georgia, Gold Harbour in 2023. We’ve seen 12 of the 18 species, though we don’t have decent photos of two of them. Should we do a quest to see them all?

 

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