Penguins scattered across steep rock cliffs by ocean waves

Navigating Rough Seas at the Snares

Our night was a turbulent one, rocked by what felt like unusually rough seas. The motion was a strong side-to-side sway, reminiscent of a baby being rocked in a cradle a bit too vigorously, which left us wondering if it was due to our cabin’s location or just the wild sea conditions. By morning, we were met with blustery winds and swelling waves as we approached the Snares.

 

From the ship, we aimed our lenses at the surrounding sea birds: Sooty Shearwaters, Diving Petrels, Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels, Salvin’s Albatross, and Buller’s Albatross.

We then noticed the “Penguin Slide” —a steep rocky area used by penguins to travel between their forest nests and the sea. With my upgraded 200-600 lens, I could discern countless little dots scaling the slide: Snares crested penguins in action. It was a moment that took some time to absorb, realising each dot was a penguin battling the raw elements to survive.

The original plan was to zodiac cruise around North-East Island at The Snares, but the choppy waters made it impossible to safely deploy the zodiacs or board passengers. Instead, the captain opted for a “ship cruise,” navigating our 124-meter vessel remarkably close to the island shores. The captain managed to hold our position for about 15 minutes before we had to move on.

The rest of the day was spent cruising along the western chain of islands. With the ongoing rough seas, we took our sea sickness medications and allowed ourselves a much-needed nap, rocked by the undulating waves.

 

Though both sedated from the seasickness medication, we rallied for the biosecurity checks, where we brought anything we planned to take ashore to the lounge for a thorough inspection by the expedition team.

 

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