Penguins scattered across steep rock cliffs by ocean waves

Navigating Rough Seas at the Snares

Our night was a turbulent one, rocked by what felt like unusually rough seas. The motion was a strong side-to-side sway, reminiscent of a baby being rocked in a cradle a bit too vigorously, which left us wondering if it was due to our cabin’s location or just the wild sea conditions. By morning, we were met with blustery winds and surging waves as we approached the Snares. There was no way we were getting off the ship today. We braved the wind and aimed our lenses at the surrounding sea birds: Sooty Shearwaters, Diving Petrels, Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels, Salvin’s Albatross, and Buller’s Albatross.
Black-and-white seabird flying above rough sea
Brown seabird gliding over choppy ocean water

One of the guides pointed out what they called the “Penguin Slide”. It took a moment to realise that the tiny dots climbing the steep cliff were Snares crested penguins. This “slide” is actually the path they traverse between their forest nests and the sea. While it wasn’t the close encounter I had anticipated, this was a new species of penguin for us! And observing these birds navigate their rugged environment was fascinating, even from a distance.

Penguins climbing rocky slope in dense green forest

Large penguin colony on rocky coastal cliffside

The original plan was to zodiac cruise around North-East Island at The Snares, but the choppy waters made it impossible to safely deploy the zodiacs or board passengers. Instead, the captain opted for a “ship cruise,” navigating our 124-meter vessel remarkably close to the island shores. The captain managed to hold our position for about 15 minutes before we had to move on. Snares penguins porpoised around the ship, seeming to enjoy the swell and rough seas.

Waves crashing against rugged coastal cliffs

Penguins swimming in choppy ocean water

Group of rockhopper penguins swimming in ocean

Two penguins leaping from ocean surface

Penguin mid-leap over choppy ocean waves

The rest of the day was spent cruising along the western chain of islands. With the ongoing rough seas, we took our sea sickness medications and allowed ourselves a much-needed nap. Though both sedated from the seasickness medication, we rallied for the biosecurity checks, where we brought anything we planned to take ashore to the lounge for a thorough inspection by the expedition team.

 

Natural rock arch over rough ocean waves

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