A Bucket List Trip to See the Brown Bears at Brooks Lodge
Brooks Camp – The Densest Concentration of Brown Bears in the World
(Here’s a link if you want to skip the section about how we got to Brooks Camp, including an epic moose sighting in Anchorage, and get straight to the bears)
Getting to Anchorage
Our journey from Australia included a brief stopover in Southern California to visit my mom. From there, we flew via Seattle to Anchorage. The map can be deceiving—it’s over three-hours past Seattle. It was a crystal clear day so we had views of Mount Hood, Mount Rainier, and Mount St. Helens.
Where (and Where NOT) to Stay in Anchorage
We had planned for two nights in Anchorage (see how slowly we travel now?) to account for any potential travel disruptions. We rented a car to give ourselves some flexibility. However, accommodation in Anchorage during the summer is ridiculously expensive and books up early. Almost $700 for a Courtyard ?!?
The Lakefront Saga
Initially, I booked us at the Lakefront. The reviews were mixed, but we decided to give it a go as it was under $400 and just for basically a layover. Long story short, I booked online in February, and although the confirmation email stated “no online payment taken,” they charged my credit card in full. Fine, I thought. But in May, when I was double-checking all the accommodations on our itinerary, the booking showed as canceled. When I called the hotel, they said they had no idea what happened and couldn’t help, but they could offer the same room at double the price. They gave me the manager’s number, but he was away until January, and another number they listed had a full voicemail. After multiple attempts to get a refund, during which I was repeatedly put on hold (20 minutes is my limit), I had to dispute the charge with my credit card company. To top it off, the day before we were set to arrive, I got an email asking to confirm our arrival time! I explained what had happened, and the person told me they still had a room booked for us at the original rate and just needed to know if we were coming. I replied to clarify that THEY had already canceled our booking, and we weren’t coming. And then, they charged my credit card AGAIN, and when I called to resolve it, they refused to help. Luckily, American Express has a very efficient dispute process. OK, rant over.
The SpringHill Suites
We ended up staying at the SpringHill Suites by Marriott, as I was on a Marriott points run and got a decent work discount. Our room was massive, with a little kitchenette, a lounge area, and blackout curtains—which were essential since it stayed light until after 11 p.m. For dinner we went to the Fancy Moose, which is located at the dreaded Lakefront motel. I forgot to take pics because were wiped from jetlag and a day of travel, but it had a terrace overlooking the seaplane traffic on Lake Hood and the food and service was better than we were expecting..
How to Spend One Day in Anchorage
The plan for our free day in Anchorage was simple:
- Find a moose
- Get breakfast
- Do some last-minute shopping
- Repack for Brooks & figure out what to do with our excess luggage
- Meet up with some friends for dinner
Find a Moose
I had Googled where to see a moose in Anchorage and found this super helpful blog post. The plan was to head out at sunrise, but with the rain and the early hour—before 5 a.m.—we didn’t get going until after 8. I had a list of potential moose hotspots, with the zoo being our absolute last resort.
Our first stop was Kincaid Park, a sprawling 1,500-acre urban oasis right next to the Anchorage airport runway. From there, we joined the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, an 11-mile scenic path. Tony Knowles, by the way, is a former governor of Alaska and mayor of Anchorage.
Despite the light rain, within 10 minutes, we spotted a moose—not just any moose, but an enormous bull with a massive rack of antlers. We quietly observed him, quickly realising he couldn’t care less that we were there. Cyclists and hikers passed us on the trail—probably locals, since they didn’t even stop for the moose.
Get Breakfast
By this time, it was around 10 a.m., and the dinner from the Fancy Moose had long worn off—we were in desperate need of coffee. I pulled up TripAdvisor, filtered for breakfast spots, and we headed to the top-rated place, Snow City Cafe.
There was a bit of a wait, and they offered to take our number and text us when a table was ready. When I mentioned I had an Australian phone number, they looked at me like I was from Mars! Since they couldn’t text international numbers and it was raining, we decided to wait it out in the warmth of the cafe and enjoy a coffee while we waited. We’re not usually the type to wait in line for a restaurant, but this was definitely worth it—perfectly crispy American bacon and fluffy buttermilk biscuits. Andy said the reindeer sausage was pretty good as well.
Bellies full, we walked around downtown admiring the murals and blooming flowers.
Do Some Last Minute Shopping
Our shopping list included a long-sleeve hiking shirt and camp shoes—something to wear around the lodge and on the ship besides my hiking boots. Our first stop was REI, where I snagged a great shirt at 50% off. Unfortunately, they didn’t have camp shoes because “it’s not winter.” We also picked up some 95% DEET bug repellent. #Alaska
Next, we found a North Face store for the camp shoes. Shopping in the U.S. has its pros and cons. On the plus side, prices are generally more reasonable than in Australia. I also love being a size medium (Australian sizes are often influenced by Asian sizing, which sometimes makes me an XL). On the downside, tax is always a surprise, and the AUD-USD exchange rate is rough. While I initially saw the vast variety as a positive, I now find it almost overwhelming.
Repack for Brooks and Figure Out What to do with Our Excess Luggage
Our luggage allowance for Brooks was 22 kg (50 pounds) per person, including carry-on. We had brought an empty bag, but after some shopping at my mom’s, it was no longer empty—filled with exciting things like a year’s supply of vitamins from Costco.
The plan was to take only three days’ worth of necessities to Brooks and leave the rest in Anchorage. While there is luggage storage available at the south (Main) terminal of Anchorage Airport, it costs around $20 per day, so that was our last resort.
We decided to check with the Courtyard hotel where we’d be staying after our return from Brooks. They were friendly and accommodating and offered to store our bag at no charge.
Meet up with Some Friends for Dinner
For dinner, we met up with some friends from our time in Texas who now live in Anchorage. We chose the Moose’s Tooth. Once again, there was a wait, but with a bar available and good company to catch up with, it wasn’t a problem. The pizza was definitely worth the wait.
Travel Day
We chose to have Brooks Lodge arrange our flights, which included a charter flight to King Salmon followed by a float plane to Brooks. Although our flight wasn’t until 11:30, we checked out of the hotel by 7:30 and headed to Gwennie’s for breakfast. They opened at 8, and even though we arrived before they opened, there was already a line. Thankfully, they had plenty of waitstaff, so everything ran smoothly. It wasn’t quite as good as Snow City Cafe, but it was enough to keep us satisfied until dinner at Brooks—which was our next meal assuming everything went as planned.
After breakfast, we returned the rental car but realised we were at the south terminal, while Alaska Central Express (ACE) departs from the north terminal. It was a 15-minute walk, which wasn’t a big deal since we had lightened our luggage. Part of the walk goes through an indigenous Alaskan exhibition.
Flying with Alaska Central Express
We were a bit eager and arrived at the north terminal by 9:30, only to find we were the only ones there – the only people in the entire terminal. Around 10:45, the staff arrived to check us and a handful of other passengers in. They weighed each of us along with our luggage.
When it was time to board, they walked us through the counter area, out the back door, and straight to the waiting Beechcraft B1900C—no security checks. The plane was snug. It didn’t have any overhead bins, and the seats were way too small to slide our camera bags under, so they sat on our laps for 1.5-hour flight. The views were absolutely stunning.
We landed in King Salmon, where a shuttle bus was waiting to take us on a quick five-minute ride to the Katmai Air floatplane base on the river. The process there wasn’t entirely clear—you just signed a waiver and then relaxed in the comfortable waiting area until your name was called. They had the bear cam playing on a big screen, which was fun to watch knowing we’d be there in a few hours. We only waited about 40 minutes before our name was called. The flight from King Salmon to Brooks Camp takes about 30 minutes. We flew at a very low altitude due to some clouds, giving us an incredible view. It was a smooth landing on Naknek Lake, and there were about 20 seaplanes lining the beach. It was as perfect as we remembered.
Staying at Brooks Lodge
Brooks Camp, located in Katmai National Park, is managed by the National Park Service and is open annually from June 1 to September 17. The camp features a visitor centre, ranger station, campground, and an auditorium offering ranger-led programs. Brooks Lodge, operated by Katmailand, includes a main lodge for meals and 16 cabins. Because you have to literally win the lottery to stay at Brooks Lodge, many visitors opt for day trips via floatplane or ferry.
Fun fact: My North Face Denali is still going strong after 17 years! (top photo is 2007 and bottom is 2024)
The first stop when you arrive, whether you are staying overnight or not, is bear school. When we arrived, one session was already in progress, so we waited about 10 minutes for the next one. We watched the safety video and listened to the ranger’s talk to earn our pins.
No offence to the designer of this year’s pin, but I think I prefer the one from 2007.
After that, we headed to reception, where we were assigned to cabin 26. There are wheelbarrows available to help with luggage, but our cabin wasn’t far, so Andy just carried the bags. You can’t request a specific cabin, but we were coincidentally assigned the exact same cabin we had in 2007. Neither the cabin nor the dining hall had changed one bit, but they have done major upgrades elsewhere.
Where to See Bears at Brooks Camp
Finding a bear at Brooks Camp isn’t like spotting a puma in Torres del Paine. In July, it’s like shooting fish in a barrel (photographically speaking). There are several viewing platforms, but the bears are everywhere: on the beach, in the lake, the river, on the trails, around camp, and in the tall grass.
Viewing Bears from The Bridge and Lower Platforms
The bridge over the Brooks River used to be a floating bridge with one platform on the south side. This somewhat blocked the bears movement and often results in bear jams. The bridge is now elevated with a large platform on the north side and two platforms on the south side. Most of the bears were further up the river, but there was still some action at the lower platforms. There is now a live webcam at the lower platform as well.
And this is one of my favourite images from the trip. We took a walk before breakfast on our last morning. The light was amazing on the west side of the bridge, but all the bears were on the east side, which meant shooting directly into the sun. As I captured silhouettes, I noticed the incredible light and had to adjust the exposure to capture the sun dancing off the shimmering water.
Viewing Bears from the Riffles Platform
The Riffles platform is located a bit downstream from the Falls platform and provided a different perspective on bear behaviour. There’s no time limit here, and it was never crowded during our visits, making it a more relaxing spot to watch the bears.
With a long lens and some aggressive cropping, the Riffles platform also provides an interesting view of the falls.
Walking to the Falls Platform
The falls platform is why most people come to Brooks in July. Here’s a hyperlapse of the 1.2-mile (1.9 km) flat walk from the visitor centre.
Bear bells are no longer recommended, and bear spray is prohibited. Instead, you’re advised to make noise and stay alert. On nearly every trek, we encountered a bear on the trail. Since they have the right of way, you simply step aside and let them pass—hoping they don’t change their path and come toward you. It’s a pretty wild feeling when a three-foot 800 pound (360ish kg) brown bear walks by you on the trail.
The platform is open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., and in July, the falls platform is where all the action happens. During peak season, the platform’s capacity is limited to 40 people, and tripods aren’t allowed. If it reaches capacity, the rangers take your name, and you can wait at the Riffles platform until it’s your turn. They use radios to coordinate, and I wondered how they kept track of everyone until I noticed they made little notes on the waiting list—I was “camo backpack” or “waffle shirt and glasses.” When it’s your turn, you’re asked to stay no longer than 30 minutes and to self-police. Most people adhered to the time limit, but we saw a few who didn’t. I think the longest we had to wait was 30 minutes. One of the benefits of staying overnight is that you can be there before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., because the day-trippers aren’t there so there’s no time limit. The best light at the falls was after 7 p.m.
Viewing Bears from the Falls Platform
In the weeks leading up to our trip, we watched the Falls bear cams religiously. I remember seeing so many bears and fish, and I kept hoping they would still be there when we arrived. It’s hard to imagine there being even more bears, but at the peak, we counted 39 bears at the falls at once. I think the fewest bears we ever saw at the falls was 12.
There was a researcher counting salmon, and he estimated around 400 were jumping up the falls per minute. There were so many salmon that the bears simply stood there, and the salmon practically jumped into their mouths.
The more dominant bears claimed the prime spots at the falls.
Others stayed in the “jacuzzi”—the pooling water at the base of the falls.
Some bears ventured farther downriver, either snorkelling or using the run-and-jump method to catch fish.
Walking in the River with Brown Bears
A new experience for us this year was the river walk. When we visited in 2007, the only people in the river were fishermen. I remember thinking how adventurous that was, given that bears were fishing there too. I recall watching a fisherman catch a fish, only to quickly cut the line to avoid an incoming bear after the same catch. In 2024, it seems they allow anyone with a permit to enter the water. You can easily get a permit at the visitor centre. Since focusing on photography can make you less aware of your surroundings, we decided to hire a guide. It’s best to book this in advance to secure the spot you want. They offer half-day and full-day sessions. We chose a half-day afternoon slot to avoid the crowds on the platforms and take advantage of the better light.
Fit Check
We met our guide at reception, and he took us to get fitted in hip waders. Hip waders are waterproof pants that extend above the hips, similar to a dry suit, with built-in booties. You also wear separate waterproof boots over them to keep your legs and feet dry while wading in water. The built-in booties were much bigger than my feet, so I had to wear even larger boots, which felt a bit like oversized clown shoes.
Wading in a River with Brown Bears
It was cooler in the morning, but by the time we set out, it had warmed up. I wore jeans and a long-sleeve t-shirt under my waders. We entered the river right in front of our cabin. It was unnerving walking through the tall grass, knowing how many bears were in the area and how well camouflaged they can be despite their size.
I was concerned about the strong current in the river, but it wasn’t as strong as I had imagined. My biggest worry was falling into the water with the giant camera. It’s insured, but I didn’t want to be without a camera for the rest of the trip (though, who am I kidding—I had a backup plan. We always bring a second camera body, and if worse came to worst, I could rent or buy a lens in Anchorage). The moving rocks were a bit challenging, and there were a few moments when I grabbed the guide’s arm for stability. Given the number of bears in the area, I was extremely glad we had a guide with us. But in the end, everything went smoothly.
We slowly made our way up the river, being careful to stay 50 yards from any bear. This proved challenging as we’d move to one riverbank to avoid bears in the water, only to find bears on the riverbank. The absolute highlight was spotting a bear they call Grazer. She was the only one with small cubs, which they call spring cubs (as opposed to COYs, or cubs of the year, which are last year’s cubs).
Making our Way Back to Anchorage
Our three nights at Brooks flew by in the blink of an eye, which is ironic considering some people we met at lunch were surprised we were staying in the cabins and wondered what you would do for three days.
We spent our last morning on the platforms, which were blissfully empty because the seaplanes and ferry were delayed due to weather.
Besides the bears, we spotted a family of mergansers, a scruffy juvenile bald eagle, and a very patient squirrel.
Our departure was slightly delayed due to bears in camp, but eventually, we had to board the seaplane. The views on the way back to King Salmon were epic. We were taken directly to the airport, where we boarded our flight back to Anchorage.
The airport was absolute chaos due to the CrowdStrike outage. We had no idea what was going on as we’d been completely off the grid at Brooks. Luckily our flight wasn’t impacted – I guess ACE runs on Windows 95. Since the hotel shuttle left from the south terminal, and we landed in the north terminal, we decided to grab a cab to the hotel. The Courtyard was surprisingly nice, with a little store, cafe, and everything we needed.
We took an Uber to Tommy’s Burgers, which had a lovely patio and great burgers—10/10 would recommend. We then walked over to Walgreens to get some hydrocortisone. Andy had a million bites or a nasty rash on his hands, while I only had one bite, but it was a doozie (like three bites combined into one mega bite).
We had a great night’s sleep and were up at 5 a.m. for the shuttle to the airport, ready for our flight to Sitka and the next part of our adventure.
