Exploring Malaysian Borneo – Kinabatangan

Getting to Kinabatangan Nature Lodge

The journey from Sepilok to Kinabatangan lasted approximately two hours, and our driver made a midway stop at a shopping complex. We didn’t need to do any shopping and it was wicked hot so we opted to stay in the van.

Kinabatangan Nature Lodge is located along the picturesque Kinabatangan River. The road ended in Kampung Bilit, and we were a bit perplexed (ok, terrified) when we exited the van.

Luckily, we weren’t staying here. We were directed to a small jetty and boarded a long boat to cross the river.

Kinabatangan Nature Lodge

At the reception, we were warmly greeted by Mohammad, who would be our guide for the three-night stay, and his charming wife, July, who efficiently managed all front-of-house affairs. The lodge featured rustic chalets and a few dormitories connected by a network of raised walkways. Our room, while basic, provided a comfortable respite, although the persistent humidity ensured that nothing ever truly felt dry.

Meals were served in the open-air dining area, with the standout being crispt fried chicken for lunch. On the flip side, the weakest meal was a noodle sandwich for breakfast, a consequence of our late return from the morning boat trip. The food was edible, and we didn’t get sick, but it wasn’t the Shangri-La.

The Daily Schedule

The daily schedule followed a consistent pattern:

• Early morning boat trip
• Return to the lodge for breakfast
• Forest walk
• Lunch
• Afternoon boat trip
• Dinner
• Evening forest walk

Most people stay one or two nights, so they do two to four boat trips. Because wildlife isn’t guaranteed, we opted for three nights (meaning six boat trips). While boats typically accommodated 12 passengers, we had pre-arranged a private boat for added flexibility.

I only lasted five minutes on the forest walk. The thick mud covering the forest floor, combined with my borrowed rubber boots, made each step a struggle. Despite bathing in bug repellent, it seemed to attract bugs rather than repel them. It also didn’t help that part of Mohammad’s narration focussed on mosquito-borne illnesses which are prevalent in the rainforest. After a minor freak-out over a leech, I asked Mohammad about potential animal sightings on the walk. He explained that this walk was primarily about enjoying the forest itself. I decided to limit my enjoyment of the forest to the boat trips.

The river was truly beautiful, and changed throughout the day. Thick fog in the morning gave way to bright blue skies before gorgeous white puffy clouds arrived in the afternoon. Photography from the boat posed its challenges, with wildlife often obscured by branches, in motion, or backlit.

Wildlife at Kinabatangan Nature Lodge

This area is known for the “Borneo Big Five” pygmy elephants. proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, orangutans, and rhinoceros hornbills. On each boat trip, we saw four of the five, only missing the elephants which are quite rare. Mohammad, our exceptional guide, often exhibited more excitement than us during our wildlife encounters.

On our last afternoon, Mohammad received word from another guide about elephants in the river. Despite the long boat ride and uncertain odds, we decided to give it a go. The scorching heat made me grateful for my hat, as we passed other boats where passengers resorted to wearing life vests on their heads for sun protection. After an hour of anticipation, Mohammad started jumping around and screaming “elephant, elephant, elephant.” It was a magical experience to watch them bathing in the river for almost 20 minutes before retreating back into the forest.

Next up — Lahad Datu