Grytviken, South Georgia

This post is part of our epic adventure to the Falklands, South Georgia, and Antarctica. In case you don’t want to read this sequentially, or you are looking for a specific part of the trip, here are some shortcuts:

• Introduction
• Departure Day
• Santiago, Chile
• Torres del Paine, Chile
• El Calafate, Argentina
• Ushuaia, Argentina
• Embarkation Day
• Stanley, Falkland Islands
• Sea Days
• Tour of the Ship
• Right Whale Bay, South Georgia
• Salisbury Plain, South Georgia
• Grytviken, South Georgia <-- You are here
• Fortuna Bay, South Georgia
• Stromness, South Georgia
• Godthul, South Georgia
• St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia
• Gold Harbour, South Georgia
• Cooper Bay, South Georgia
• The Scotia Sea Surprise
• Cuverville Island, Antarctic Peninsula
• Port Lockroy, Antarctic Peninsula
• The Drake and Ushuaia, Argentina

Grytviken, South Georgia – January 3rd

54.2811° S, 36.5087° W

4 Celsius / 39 Fahrenheit – Clear skies

Grytviken was originally established as a whaling station in the early 20th century and served as a hub for the whaling industry. Today it is home to a small seasonal museum and a biosecurity station. We’d had a dog search while we were in the Falklands, but officials would board the boat in Grytviken for a final inspection. Any seeds, grains of sand, or of a specks of dirt could prohibit us from future landings in South Georgia, so it was all hands on deck for a final thorough cleaning before we arrived.

The weather was postcard-perfect. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the water was an almost unnatural shade of turquoise.

The biosecurity officials boarded the ship for the final inspection. I think they were surprised to be speaking to Greg Mortimer, “the bloke, not the ship.” After the ship was fully inspected, we were individually inspected before we boarded the zodiaks.

Once ashore, we embarked on a brief tour of the rusting whale oil tanks, towering chimney stacks, and dilapidated processing buildings. It was difficult to fathom the horrific events that unfolded within these grounds.

The weathered remnants of the past offered a captivating array of abstract textures and patterns.

Amongst the whaling relics were lounging elephant and fur seals, king penguins, and even a single gentoo penguin.

Our visit also included a solemn visit to Shackleton’s Grave, a poignant reminder of the indomitable spirit of exploration.

The back of his grave features a quote from Robert Browning:

I hold…that a man should strive to the uttermost for his life’s set prize.

Next up — Fortuna Bay, South Georgia