Walrus sleeping on drifting Arctic ice floe

Falling in Love with the Arctic Walrus

I’ve never seen a walrus before. It is risky to get your hopes up in wildlife photography, but I was REALLY hoping to capture photos of walrus on this trip. Svalbard didn’t disappoint. It is hard not to love these blubbery potatoes with tusks. We had several memorable walrus encounters throughout the trip. One of […]

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Two seals resting on sea ice in Arctic mist

Harp Seals in the Sea Mist

Our very first wildlife sighting of the expedition were mum and calf harp seals — a species we hadn’t even expected to see. Even better, the conditions were absolutely magical. The sea was shrouded in a rare, thick mist, with the soft Arctic sun filtering through in hazy beams. My instinct is always to keep […]

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Snowy Arctic mountains behind sea ice and glacier

Landscapes of Svalbard

Svalbard landscapes are a place of space, contrast, and silence. Mountains rise abruptly from the sea. Ice moves slowly, reshaping the coast over time. On still days, water mirrors the sky. On others, it disappears under a chaotic mosaic of floes. Svalbard is not a place of landmarks. It is a place of moods. Glaciers […]

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Snowmobiles parked near Arctic ice cave formation

A Snowmobile Trip to East Svalbard

When we started researching things to do, a snowmobile trip to East Svalbard kept being mentioned. My first thought? It sounded like a very long day — about 10 hours. My second thought? I had zero experience driving a snowmobile. But let’s be honest — this was probably a once-in-a-lifetime trip, and would provide a […]

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Svalbard reindeer standing on snowy tundra

Svalbard Photography Tour

We were hoping to see some land-based Arctic wildlife before boarding the ship, so we booked a half-day semi-private Svalbard photography tour with SeeAndExplore. It was also our first real test of our winter gear. I layered up with a Smartwool base layer (top and bottom), fleece pants, rain/wind pants, wool socks and snow boots, […]

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Snowy Longyearbyen street with Arctic mountain backdrop

How to Get to Svalbard (and what to do once you are there)

Svalbard is pretty easy to reach from Oslo — but if you’re coming from Australia, you are basically travelling to the opposite end of the planet. How to Get to Svalbard I honestly had no idea how to get to Svalbard. I didn’t even know what airport to search. From Melbourne, the most direct route […]

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Arctic ice floes at sunset beside ship walkway

Svalbard Photography Expedition

Every ten years, an Australian phenomenon occurs: the Easter holidays line up perfectly with Anzac Day, making it the ultimate opportunity to take a long break without using up a ton of annual leave. Our plan? A 9-day Svalbard photography expedition in search of Arctic wildlife in a country we’d never visited before — Norway. […]

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Golden sandy tidal flats surrounded by lush green hills

Hiking the Abel Tasman Coast Track (well, part of it)

  As we left Kaikoura, the weather shifted back to windy and rainy conditions, setting the tone for our 3-hour scenic drive to Nelson. Nelson was a strategic stop for us: We planned to drop off our rental car and leave most of our luggage at the hotel, returning to collect it after our time […]

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Dolphin leaping above turquoise ocean under a clear sky.

Chasing Dusky Dolphins in Kaikoura

Though disappointed by the cancellation of the astrophotography workshop in Lake Tekapo, we remained optimistic about coming back at some point given New Zealand’s proximity to Sydney. The next leg of our journey was a drive estimated at about five hours to Kaikoura, with a planned stop in Christchurch to break up the trip. Christchurch […]

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Misty forest path lined with towering moss-covered trees

From Disembarkation to Dunedin

Disembarkation day always carries a hint of melancholy, almost like the end of a relationship. We docked at Bluff around 8 AM and, being bound for Invercargill Airport, we were among the last to disembark at around 9:30 AM. The drive to the airport was quiet and reflective. Arriving at the airport before the Budget […]

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