Serene fjord with forested cliffs, snow-capped peaks, and low-lying clouds

Te Anau and Milford Sound

The slight wine-induced haze from last night—yes, three glasses now count as a big night in my mid-life—made for a slow start to the morning. Andy fetched our coffee from the lobby, just as we got a text from our Airbnb host inviting us to check in early. Motivated by the prospect of settling in […]

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The Shortest Expedition Cruise Ever

Wild Alaska on the National Geographic Sea Lion with Lindblad Expditions Our six-day expedition started in Sitka and ended in Juneau, offering activities such as hiking, kayaking, paddleboarding, and fly fishing. We planned to explore glaciers and fjords, and hope to spot wildlife including moose, bears, bald eagles, puffins, sea lions, orcas, otters, and humpbacks. […]

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Group of Magellanic penguins walking on the beach, with a King penguin standing behind them.

Saunders Island: The Perfect End to Our Expedition

The Grand Finale In the afternoon, we made our way to Saunders Island. Another wet zodiac ride brought us ashore, where we encountered a massive gentoo penguin colony right at the landing site. Walking a bit farther, we discovered grazing sheep and Magellanic penguins burrowing into the hillside. The orange route markers made it resemble […]

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A Black-browed albatross flying over a rocky nesting colony with other albatrosses near the ocean cliffs on a sunny day.

The Rockhoppers and Albatross at West Point Island

The Unexpected Beauty of the Falklands When I mentioned our expedition was heading to the Falklands, most people gave me a puzzled look. Like many, my only association with the Falkland Islands was their role in the 1982 war—until we visited last year. The islands are bursting with diverse bird life, from penguins to albatross, […]

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Seabird flying over a deep blue ocean under a partly cloudy sky.

A Slow Slog to the Falklands

Two Days Tuns into Three To avoid the worst of the winds—what we affectionately called the “purples”—the ship changed course. This detour added another day to our already two-day journey between South Georgia and the Falklands. Honestly, I was perfectly content staying in the cabin. I spent hours looking through the images and video from […]

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A large, weathered bone lies among smooth pebbles, brown seaweed, and vibrant red algae on a rocky beach.

Afternoon on the Beach at Godthul

Not the Typical Beach Day In the afternoon, we had two options. The first was a 6km, one-way hike to Sandebugten, which was promoted as being even more difficult than the Shackleton walk, and promised no wildlife. The second option was a more relaxed walk along the beach, with the chance to explore a gentoo […]

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A macaroni penguin stands tall on a rocky surface, its distinctive yellow-orange crest glowing in the sunlight, while three other penguins gather in the background.

Zodiac Cruise to Cobblers Cove

I Should Have Taken the Seasickness Meds We woke to the ship anchored in Godthul, ready for another day of exploration. Our morning excursion took us on a zodiac cruise to Cobblers Cove, where we were eager to see a macaroni penguin colony. It took about 15 minutes of cruising through the open ocean, gripping […]

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Snow-capped mountains rise sharply above a blue fjord, partially covered in clouds under a bright sky.

The Silence at Larsen Fjord and Some Seriously Cool Icebergs

The Sound of Silence We woke to gusty winds in Larsen Fjord, surrounded by an unusual number of icebergs—likely remnants from the massive ones that had broken up offshore. The swell had picked up by the time Greg summoned us to the zodiacs, however he assured us that it would be calm once in the […]

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Seals rest on the grassy shore while a large group of king penguins gathers near water with abandoned, rusted buildings in the background.

Foggy Morning and Territorial Seals in Stromness

What’s Plan B? The plan for today was an ambitious one: a 6km hike from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, following the final leg of Shackleton’s famous last walk. The trek would take hikers up 300 meters in elevation and down to the abandoned whaling station at Stromness, with the ship meeting them there about four […]

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