Reflections on Our Trip to Svalbard (and Svalbard departure travel tips)

This trip wasn’t about ticking off a long list of wildlife sightings or firing off thousands of frames. It was about chasing Arctic light, slowing down, and experiencing one of the most remote, surreal landscapes on Earth.

Svalbard Pre-Trip

I’m so glad we arrived in Svalbard a few days before our expedition. It gave us time to adjust to the time difference, recover from the long journey, and not stress about potential delays or lost luggage (luckily, we had neither). Plus, we really enjoyed filling the extra days with a photography tour with SeeAndExplore  and an incredible snowmobile trip to East Svalbard with Spitzbergen Adventures.

The Wildlife

We added several new species to our list — harp seals, walrus, bearded seals, a minke whale, and a few birds — and witnessed the vast stillness of the pack ice at 80° north. We snowmobiled through whiteouts, photographed in golden mist, and adjusted to a rhythm set entirely by wildlife and weather.

Yes, the new polar bear regulations in Svalbard meant keeping our distance (and getting more “pixel bears” than close portraits), but the experience still delivered everything we hoped for: moments of awe, space for creativity, and images we’ll treasure far more than any checklist.

The Ship

The M/V Freya was absolutely ideal for a photography expedition, with low sides and access to the bow. The crew of the M/V Freya was exceptional — the captain got us close to wildlife while staying respectful of distance, the team kept us warm, well-fed, and caffeinated, and our expedition leaders were constantly on watch, scanning the horizon so we didn’t miss a thing.

Fellow Passengers

This was our first small group trip in a long time — and as always, small groups are a bit of a gamble. You never quite know if you’ll vibe with your fellow travellers. But this time, we truly hit the jackpot. The other guests? An absolute dream. No elbows, no egos — just generous, thoughtful photographers who actually moved aside to make sure everyone had the best possible vantage point. It made the experience that much more special — and reminded us why we love doing trips like this in the first place.

Travelling Home

The flight home is usually worse — the adrenaline that helps carry you through the outbound leg is gone, and all you’ve got ahead of you is jet lag, unpacking, and returning to work. But this time, it wasn’t too bad (though it did take three days).

We had a few hours to kill after disembarking the ship, but we had all our luggage with us. Most of the other passengers headed straight to the airport, but we didn’t love the idea of sitting there for nearly four hours. Instead, we grabbed a taxi to the Radisson to see if they’d hold our bags while we wandered around town. No need to even ask — they have a luggage room right off the entryway, and it couldn’t have been easier.

We also booked a taxi to pick us up from the Radisson at 11 a.m. for our 12:50 p.m. flight. Svalbard Airport is tiny, but we’d heard the lines could get long, so we didn’t want to cut it too close.

From the Radisson, it’s only a couple of blocks to the main shopping area, and there’s a handy flight check-in kiosk inside the main mall (the one with Fruene and Stationen, across from the grocery store). All you need is your passport — you can print your boarding passes and luggage tags, so when you get to the airport, you can skip the main check-in line and just head to bag drop.

When we arrived, the check-in line was massive, but the bag drop line had only one other person — until the conveyor belt stopped working for five minutes and the line suddenly stretched out the door. Luckily, our timing was perfect.

We flew three hours from Svalbard to Oslo, then had another overnight at the Radisson Blu at the airport. The next day was a seven-hour flight to Dubai, arriving just before midnight. From there, had two options to Melbourne: a 2:30 a.m. flight (which meant a two-hour layover) or a 10 a.m. departure (which meant a 10 hour layover). We chose the longer layover and booked a room at Hotel DXB, the Dubai International Hotel inside security — just above the Emirates lounge in Concourse B.

They met us at our gate (Terminal A) and helped us transfer terminals and check in, which made everything super easy. It’s expensive, but having a proper bed and shower before a 14-hour flight made a huge difference.

The only low point? Going from the Emirates First Class Lounge to row 80 in economy. Painful. But the Emirates crew was incredible — they even brought us a tray of desserts from business class and took a souvenir photo. A classy end to an unforgettable trip.