South Georgia & Antarctic Odyssey

Are you ready for a story of a trip that was three years in the making? Imagine the anticipation of booking a trip to one of the most remote places on Earth – Antarctica – only to have it cancelled not once, but twice due to the global pandemic.

Background

Several years ago, Andy had a wild idea to go scuba diving in Antarctica. Diving in South Australia was already out of my comfort zone, and the water there was 15c/59f. Diving in Antarctica involved a dry suit and the water would be just above freezing. It also sounded like it was going to cost a fortune. It wasn’t a hard no, but it wasn’t a yes, yet.

Fast forward to 2019. We’re sitting in our apartment with award-winning wildlife photographer Scott Portelli, who is sharing his amazing images from Antarctica. He explained that while he does scuba dive in the Antarctic, you can see just as much snorkelling. I’d been played. Andy knew that all it took was a few photos of seals to get me on board. Scott was leading a 9-day voyage to the Antarctic peninsula with Aurora Expeditions in December of 2020, and it wasn’t as expensive as we imagined. We paid the deposit and started a two-year countdown.

And then, less than a year out, the world ground to a halt and Australia shut its borders. When it was clear that the 2020 season would be cancelled, Aurora offered to refund our deposit or give us a discount if we wanted to rebook on another expedition. With the discount, and the fact that we weren’t spending any money due to Covid, we were able to book the grail trip that had always seemed out of reach: a TWENTY-ONE day expedition to the Falklands, South Georgia, AND Antarctica for December of 2021. But then that voyage was cancelled, and we re-booked for December of 2022.

This was an expedition not a cruise. The ship, though designed for rugged and remote areas, only accommodated around 100 passengers and was designed for wildlife viewing. The emphasis was on exploration of the most remote places on earth. There was a high level itinerary, but specifics were determined by the weather and our expedition team’s knowledge.

With three years to think about this trip, I was anxious about a few things:

  • I was worried about flight delays and cancellations. There weren’t a lot of international flights out of Sydney, so if there is a cancellation you are usually delayed by at least a day. I decided we would go an entire week early “just in case”.
  • I was worried our luggage would get lost. While this was totally out of my control, I scheduled flights with plenty of connection time and bought Air Tags for peace of mind.
  • I was worried that we’d get covid and not be able to board the ship. We got another booster shot about five weeks before departure and isolated for a week before we left.
  • I was worried about feeling claustrophobic in a dry suit, so we signed up for a “try dry” session at a local dive shop (but we had to cancel so I’d just have to give it a go).
  • I was worried that I’d be cold. Having lived in Chicago, I knew that it was all about the gear, but I’d purged all of the gear having no use for it in Australia. I made sure I had plenty of layers, with smartwool tops and bottoms, glove liners and waterproof gloves, multiple pairs of socks, and a neck gaiter.

With its vast, otherworldly landscapes, wildlife encounters that will leave you in awe, and the sheer sense of accomplishment that comes with stepping foot on a continent only a few have seen, Antarctica is truly a once-in-a-lifetime destination. But would it be able to live up to the three years of anticipation?

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Next up — Departure Day

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