My first bearded seal sighting was pure luck — and honestly, a little accidental. I was on the wrong side of the ship, scanning for a walrus, when a seal popped its head up out of the water. I assumed it was the walrus I was looking for, but later, when reviewing my photos, I […]
Our very first wildlife sighting of the expedition were mum and calf harp seals — a species we hadn’t even expected to see. Even better, the conditions were absolutely magical. The sea was shrouded in a rare, thick mist, with the soft Arctic sun filtering through in hazy beams. My instinct is always to keep […]
Every ten years, an Australian phenomenon occurs: the Easter holidays line up perfectly with Anzac Day, making it the ultimate opportunity to take a long break without using up a ton of annual leave. Our plan? A 9-day Svalbard photography expedition in search of Arctic wildlife in a country we’d never visited before — Norway. […]
Getting to Sikta The flight to Sitka was stunningly beautiful. We flew over countless small islands, each with just a home or two and a dock. Exiting the plane was a bit unusual because there were about 20 state troopers waiting. Apparently, Sitka is a training facility, and there were 50 new recruits on our […]
Not the Typical Beach Day In the afternoon, we had two options. The first was a 6km, one-way hike to Sandebugten, which was promoted as being even more difficult than the Shackleton walk, and promised no wildlife. The second option was a more relaxed walk along the beach, with the chance to explore a gentoo […]
I Should Have Taken the Seasickness Meds We woke to the ship anchored in Godthul, ready for another day of exploration. Our morning excursion took us on a zodiac cruise to Cobblers Cove, where we were eager to see a macaroni penguin colony. It took about 15 minutes of cruising through the open ocean, gripping […]
The Sound of Silence We woke to gusty winds in Larsen Fjord, surrounded by an unusual number of icebergs—likely remnants from the massive ones that had broken up offshore. The swell had picked up by the time Greg summoned us to the zodiacs, however he assured us that it would be calm once in the […]
What’s Plan B? The plan for today was an ambitious one: a 6km hike from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, following the final leg of Shackleton’s famous last walk. The trek would take hikers up 300 meters in elevation and down to the abandoned whaling station at Stromness, with the ship meeting them there about four […]
Now THIS is South Georgia By midday, we moved on to Fortuna Bay, where we finally got to experience the South Georgia I remembered so well. Except unlike last year, the bay was now filled with icebergs and we landed at a different spot. Once at the landing site, Greg advised that we were free […]
Arriving in South Georgia As we continued our journey through the icy waters around South Georgia, we were still spotting icebergs in the distance. Low clouds blanketed us as we approached Cape Disappointment, and by the time we entered Drygalski Fjord, the cliffs were almost entirely obscured. It was a surreal sight, with the mist […]