A large, weathered bone lies among smooth pebbles, brown seaweed, and vibrant red algae on a rocky beach.

Afternoon on the Beach at Godthul

Not the Typical Beach Day In the afternoon, we had two options. The first was a 6km, one-way hike to Sandebugten, which was promoted as being even more difficult than the Shackleton walk, and promised no wildlife. The second option was a more relaxed walk along the beach, with the chance to explore a gentoo […]

Read More
A macaroni penguin stands tall on a rocky surface, its distinctive yellow-orange crest glowing in the sunlight, while three other penguins gather in the background.

Zodiac Cruise to Cobblers Cove

I Should Have Taken the Seasickness Meds We woke to the ship anchored in Godthul, ready for another day of exploration. Our morning excursion took us on a zodiac cruise to Cobblers Cove, where we were eager to see a macaroni penguin colony. It took about 15 minutes of cruising through the open ocean, gripping […]

Read More
Snow-capped mountains rise sharply above a blue fjord, partially covered in clouds under a bright sky.

The Silence at Larsen Fjord and Some Seriously Cool Icebergs

The Sound of Silence We woke to gusty winds in Larsen Fjord, surrounded by an unusual number of icebergs—likely remnants from the massive ones that had broken up offshore. The swell had picked up by the time Greg summoned us to the zodiacs, however he assured us that it would be calm once in the […]

Read More
Seals rest on the grassy shore while a large group of king penguins gathers near water with abandoned, rusted buildings in the background.

Foggy Morning and Territorial Seals in Stromness

What’s Plan B? The plan for today was an ambitious one: a 6km hike from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, following the final leg of Shackleton’s famous last walk. The trek would take hikers up 300 meters in elevation and down to the abandoned whaling station at Stromness, with the ship meeting them there about four […]

Read More
A group of fur seals lounges on the grassy shore, while a large colony of King penguins gathers near a small stream in the background. The scene overlooks the ocean, with a distant iceberg floating on the horizon, capturing the serene wildlife of South Georgia.

A Magical Landing at Fortuna

Now THIS is South Georgia By midday, we moved on to Fortuna Bay, where we finally got to experience the South Georgia I remembered so well. Except unlike last year, the bay was now filled with icebergs and we landed at a different spot. Once at the landing site, Greg advised that we were free […]

Read More
Macaroni penguin standing on a rocky slope with green hills in the background.

Cooper Bay: Our First Stop in South Georgia

Arriving in South Georgia As we continued our journey through the icy waters around South Georgia, we were still spotting icebergs in the distance. Low clouds blanketed us as we approached Cape Disappointment, and by the time we entered Drygalski Fjord, the cliffs were almost entirely obscured. It was a surreal sight, with the mist […]

Read More

Hiking, Whales, and a Historic Hut at Winter Island

We woke up anchored at the southern end of the Argentine Islands, greeted by the sight of six humpback whales feeding as we enjoyed breakfast—a magical start to the day (even if we didn’t have our cameras with us!). A long zodiac ride brought us ashore, accompanied by a playful escort of cormorants (or shags, […]

Read More
Icebergs floating in Antarctic waters with towering snow-covered mountains in the background.

Hiking Detaille Island

  Such Unbelievable Weather The afternoon excursion took us to Detaille Island, home to a historic British hut and an Adelie penguin colony perched high on a cliff. Due to the land regulations, we split into groups—half of us went ashore while the other half explored by zodiac. Only 50 people were allowed on land […]

Read More
Adélie penguin standing on snowy ice in Antarctica, surrounded by soft blue shadows.

Walking on the Sea Ice in Isacke Passage

A Stunning Start to the New Year We woke up to another stunning day in Antarctica—clear blue skies, no wind, and perfect stillness. It felt like the world was holding its breath as we floated well south of the Antarctic Circle. According to the radar, we were still the southernmost passenger ship on the entire […]

Read More